Borneo: Mabul and Sipadan Islands

After 5 wonderful days in the forest with River Junkie, we transferred to the coastal town of Semporna. We had about half a day in Semporna to do some laundry, get some snacks, and be organised for the next few days on the boat. 

We were expecting a beautiful seaside town where we could walk on the beach and enjoy little cafes and restaurants overlooking the ocean, but Semporna couldn’t be further from that. It’s a horrible dirty town and we didn’t feel that safe there, it was so disappointing. We feel very sad for the people who live there, they live in such poverty, it doesn’t feel like the government does much for them. Semporna is on the doorstep of some of the best dive sites in the world with thousands of visitors passing through every year. We can’t understand how people can pollute the environment like that so close to such a pristine natural ocean marvel and haven’t tried to do more with the town and area. Such a lost opportunity. So sad. 

Anyway. 

We booked with Scuba Junkie again and couldn’t have been happier. Unlike in Kota Kinabalu where we organised our own accommodation, diving with Scuba Junkie Sipadan includes full board and lodge. It was so easy and convenient and a beautiful location. We highly recommend it! The beach resort is on Mabul Island and has a full onsite restaurant for all meals, drinking water stations, tea and coffee are always available with morning and afternoon treats on offer, a small dive shop, a bar and lounge area, a pier and jetty with ample space for getting ready and relaxing inbetween boat outings. The grounds are beautiful and well kept. The beach in the front is sadly a bit small so no long walks on a sandy white beach. It is possible to walk around the whole island with some of the trail through the local town, but I didn’t feel comfortable going on my own. 

In and around the Scuba Junkie Mabul Beach Resort

Scuba Junkie makes a lot of effort to be eco and environmentally friendly. Examples include: no fish is included in any of their meals due to the problem of overfishing, recycling projects and responsible waste management, and they started a turtle hatchery. In 2009 Scuba Junkie founded a dedicated conservation arm called SEAS and has since grown into a registered NGO with several conservation and outreach projects including turtle, shark, and coral conservation. One of the efforts has been in preventing the poaching of turtle eggs. A turtle hatchery was launched in 2011 and island locals are given a monetary incentive for identifying turtle nests. The nest is relocated to the hatchery on the beach resort property and protected until the hatchlings appear. The baby turtles are then released back into the ocean. Over 307 nests have been relocated and 21 500 baby turtles released since the initiative began. Visitors can adopt and name a baby turtle and all proceeds go back into the project and used as the reward for identifying nests. We adopted a baby turtle and named her Eve, may she grow big and strong and be a successful mother to many babies. We were fortunate to see hatchlings being released. On our first day at Mabul a nest of green turtles hatched and the babies were released into the ocean in the late afternoon. Little Eve was part of that nest. It was very special watching the little ones scramble for the water, they are so fast! A cat was trying his luck but was scooped up by a SEAS member. Be safe and grow well little ones. 

Green turtle hatchlings ready for the sea!

Making a dash for the ocean

Adopting little Eve

We realised how privileged we were to be able visit this incredible part of the ocean and were struck by the juxtaposition of so many people living in dire conditions and poverty right next door to the beach resort. There is a community of Bajau or sea gypsies adjacent to the Scuba Junkie pier. The Bajau are essentially sea nomads, they live in stilt houses and survive on fishing and free diving. They are a stateless people with Malaysia, Philippines, and Indonesia not granting them citizenship. Without any official paperwork, children cannot go to school and most Bajua are not able to read and write. There are many articles online about the Bajau with beautiful idyllic photos of ocean life, but the reality we saw seemed far from blissful. The children wander around all day and beg from every visitor. So much waste and rubbish is thrown into the ocean everyday from the stilt houses. Their situation seems so hopeless and we were just struck with a deep sadness at their predicament. Scuba Junkie seem to manage and maintain a friendly and diplomatic relationship with their neighbours though which is good for everyone all round. 

Stilt houses of the Bajau people next to the Scuba Junkie pier

We enjoyed three full days and 2 nights at the Scuba Junkie Mabul Beach Resort. The first morning we transferred from Semporna to Mabul and after a debriefing, headed out for the first snorkel and dive session. We were happy to be on the same boat for the first day. Bron was the only snorkeler that day and had a guide all to herself. There were 3 dives/snorkels a day with a shore break with hot tea and snacks on the jetty between the morning dives and lunch at the resort before the afternoon dive. Sometimes the shore break is on the boat and if it’s a Sipadan day, lunch is provided on the island. The first day we both visited sites around Mabul island. Bron had a rest day on the second day at the resort while Justin dived Sipadan and Kepalai. The third day Justin was supposed to go to Sipadan again but was not feeling well so he had to skip, while Bron snorkelled at Kepalai and Mabul again. When booking, Bron didn’t know that snorkelers could also go to Sipadan and when we got there all the spots were booked up so she unfortunately missed out on Sipadan, but she still had a great time and saw loads around Mabul and Kepalai. 

Sipadan Island 

Justin has dived with turtles before but swimming with turtles has been a bucket list item for Bron for the longest time. This dream finally came true at Mabul and what a special time it was. We saw so many turtles of varying sizes but also some very big ones. They were mostly chilling on the edge of the reef and also feeding, but we also saw quite a few come to the surface for air. We gave them lots of space but were still close enough to enjoy and appreciate them. One of the snorkel spots is called Turtle Cleaning Station and many turtles come here to be cleaned by cleaner fish. There are mostly green turtles here but we also saw hawksbill turtles. Such a great experience! 

Sunset on the deck of Mabul Island

List of fish and sea creatures we saw at Mabul and Sipadan:

Green turtle, hawksbill turtle, white-tipped reef shark, grey reef shark, Napoleon wrasse, pick-handle barracuda, giant moray eel, yellow pipefish, giant trevally, blue tang (Dory in Finding Nemo), great barracuda, common lionfish, midnight snapper, school of red snapper, dartfish, remora fish, chevron barracuda, orange spotted grouper, grey drummer, painted spiny lobster, trumpet fish, broadclub cuttlefish, yellow boxfish, yellow clown frogfish, white spotted pufferfish, map pufferfish, sea cucumber, blue spotted stingray, yellow margin moray eel, juvenile ribbon eel, choc chip starfish (the white one, other colour morphs possible), feather star, brittle star, blue sea star, granulated sea star, cushion star, black longspine urchin, banded sea kraits (snake), spotted garden eel, various angelfish, various butterfly fish, clown fish (Nemo), moorish idol (also in Nemo), pinnate batfish, various unicornfish, various surgeonfish, various triggerfish, various snapper fish, various groupers, various parrotfish, various wrasse, banana nudibranch, stick pipefish, various dartfish, trumpetfish, cornetfish, crocodile flathead, various pufferfish, various corals and sponges. 

We didn't get any photos of anything we saw underwater but here are some ideas from the identification cards

Blue ticks = Bron and Yellow ticks = Justin

On the deck after the last snorkel waiting for the boat transfer back to Semporna

Thank you Scuba Junkie Sipadan for a fab time! 

After a full three days on Mabul Island, we transferred back to Semporna for one night before moving on to Kuala Lumpur back on the mainland for a last few days before heading back home to HCMC. 

See you next time for more on our adventures in KL!

Street art in KL

Borneo: Sepilok, Kinabatangan River, Danum Valley

After our time in Kota Kinabalu, we had a 5 day jungle trip booked with River Junkie starting in Sepilok. After a peaceful night at the Sepilok Nature Lodge, our wonderful River Junkie guide Jeffery picked us up in the morning and we were on the way! 

First stop was the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre. Opened in 1964, the centre aims to rescue and rehabilitate orphaned orangutans from logging, deforestation, the illegal wildlife trade, and other sources so that they can be reintroduced to the wild. The centre is located in the Sepilok-Kabili Forest Reserve and includes nurseries, a clinic, treatment wards, outdoor play areas, and viewing platforms. In 2014 the centre opened an area where visitors can view the younger orangutans learning to play on a large climbing frame in the outdoor nursery play area. We saw three juvenile orangutans playing, eating and snoozing in this area. It was so special to watch them play with each other and use their long limbs to climb, run, and chase each other. The ones we saw were approximately 6 to 8 years old but still seemed so small. Orangutans nurse until about 8 years old and only reach sexual maturity at around 15 years. Mothers give birth every 7 to 9 years resulting in only 4 to 5 babies in her lifetime. It’s easy to see why this species is so vulnerable. Coupled with deforestation, the situation is dire and every one is valuable. 

The centre teaches orangutans to be wild again and when they are ready, they are released back into the reserve. The centre is open to the reserve though, and released orangutans are free to return to the centre whenever they want. At first they return frequently, but over time they stop coming which is a positive sign and means they can fend for themselves and survive in the wild. There is an outdoor viewing platform where food is provided daily at 10:00 and 15:00, this is where the released orangutans can come to supplement their diet. The provided food is kept basic and bland to encourage them to forage for themselves. We only saw one orangutan at this platform and he didn’t stay long. Disappointing for us visitors but good for the monkeys and rewarding for the centre that the program is working. 

On our travels over the years we have visited many rescue and rehabilitation centres. Unfortunately not all such centres have the animal’s best interests at heart. However, we felt that this orangutan centre in Sepilok is doing their best and is successful in their aims. They have an adoption program and gifts for the orangutans available for purchase through their website. Please do remember and consider them for your Christmas and birthday gift ideas this and coming years. 

Juvenile orangutans playing and eating at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre 

Adult orangutan at the feeding platform

Wild orangutan at the centre 

Next to the Orangutan Rehabilitation centre is the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre (BSBCC). The sun bear is the smallest of all the bear species and are only found in South East Asia. They are threatened by deforestation, the illegal pet trade, and illegal captivity for bear parts particularly bile. Captive bears are held in appalling conditions and suffer mental effects for years if not forever after. The BSBCC aims to confiscate captive bears, rehabilitate ex-captive and orphaned bears, and release them into the wild. Some bears cannot be released however and remain at the centre as long-term and permanent residents. The centre started in 2008 and opened to visitors in 2014. Currently there are 43 bears at the centre. There is a raised boardwalk and viewing platforms through the conservancy area. There are several photo boards with photos and information on present and former residents. Each bear seems so welcome and loved here. Another worthwhile rehabilitation centre and we enjoyed a special visit here admiring the bears. 

A resident at the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre

The eight species of bears in the world at the BSBCC

 

From Sepilok, it was a long and somewhat bumpy drive to River Junkie’s own Hornbill Lodge on the Kinabatangan River. A really lovely lodge and we thoroughly enjoyed our time here. We had our own private room with a balcony. We were right at the end of the line of rooms on the edge of the forest, it felt very private and secluded and we saw many squirrels in the trees around our room and monkeys visited several times too. 

The days on the river were so relaxed, it was so lovely. We were well fed and watered and didn’t want for anything. There was a river cruise early each morning and late afternoon with the rest of the day free to relax and enjoy the area with an optional night walk after dinner. It rained almost everyday of our trip but for the most part didn’t interrupt our activities. It was a lovely forced two days of much needed rest. 

View of Hornbill Lodge from the river 

Our cosy room and view from the balcony 

Black squirrel sighting right outside our room door when we arrived 

Boibs overlooking the Kinabatangan River 

River cruising 

One of the main reasons to come to Kinabatangan River is to see proboscis monkeys and we were not disappointed! Over the two days we saw a number of troops and it was so lovely and peaceful to watch them grooming each other, playing and relaxing in the trees, so many moms with babes in arms too. And alpha males with the long dangling proboscis nose. In the evenings it was obvious they were settling in for the night and in the morning it was fun to watch them waking up and the youngsters being boisterous. 

Alpha male proboscis monkey 

Mom and babe

Grooming time 

We also saw several groups of long tail macaques, they are such cheeky monkeys! But a joy to watch nonetheless. One particular sighting looked like a group of moms had made a nursery with several babies clinging to them. Was really special observing the social interactions, so often very human-like. 

Long tailed macaques 

Crocodile 

 

Egrets and oriental pied hornbill 

Oriental pied hornbill 

On the second and last evening cruise, we were fortunate to have our first wild orangutan sighting! A mom with a small baby foraging before settling into a tree nest for the night. 

Down a smaller side stream searching for wildlife 

Orangutan Mom and babe

Boibs on the Kinabatangan River with our lovely guide Jeffery in the background

On the first evening, our wonderful guide Jeffery took us on a night walk through the surrounding wooded areas. It was really fun and also harrowing with lots of unusual bugs and creepy crawlies! A special sighting was the slow loris at the start of the walk. We also saw stick insects and hairy caterpillars at various stages, the adult ones being much more creepy and sinister looking. Other sightings included several frogs, spiders, and a millipede. 

Slow loris sighting on the night walk Shame he didn't really like the bright light shining on him. Was a lovely sighting but we didn't get good photos of him

Frogs

Juvenile stick insect on the left and adult on the right

A long legged centipede, juvenile on the left and adult on the right

I was ready to call it a night after this one, so creepy!

This is a list of the wildlife we saw on the Kinabatangan River: 

Animals: orangutan, proboscis monkey, long tail macaque, short tail or pig tail macaque, bats, crocodiles. 

Birds: oriental darter, oriental pied hornbill, rhinoceros hornbill, crested serpent eagle, kite or peregrine falcon, falconnet, egrets, blue roller, kingfisher, Bornean bristlehead. 

It is also possible to see pygmy elephants on the river, and sometimes crossing the river. We were hopeful but unfortunately didn’t get to see any this time. 

On the second morning, we transferred to Danum Valley via the town of Lahad Datu. Another very bumpy ride but the destination was so worthwhile. Sadly all the road transfers we experienced were just mile after mile of palm plantations. There are still some areas of primary forest and the government does seem to be taking some measures to rewild some areas, however so many millions of acres are still earmarked for the palm oil industry. A very sad reality of the tension of people and governments trying to balance human prosperity with wildlife protection and conservation. 

Danum Valley Conservation Area is a 438 km2 area of 130 million year old ancient primary rainforest. Much of the area is for the Danum Valley Research Centre (DVRC) with visiting scientists from all over the world conducting research here. The research areas are off limits to visitors and we were to stick to guided walks in certain areas. Our accommodation was adjacent to and run by the RDVC, quite rustic with no electricity between 23:00 and 07:00, but at the same time comfortable and all we needed. It was not lost on us that we were very privileged to visit such a place and the cost and effort of getting there were very much worth it. 

Our accommodation at Danum Valley 

Leeches! 

Borneo is known for its leeches. This is the tiger leech but there is also the brown leech. River Junkie kindly provided us with leech socks for our time at Danum Valley. 

Oriental pied hornbill on the roof of our accommodation in the morning sun 

Resident deer

Some of the deer have become habituated to humans and can be seen all over the centre

We had two nights and one full day at Danum Valley. Our guide Jeffery had been very quiet up to this point of the trip, but he came alive in Danum Valley, his favourite place and his passion for it showed clearly. Thank you for sharing this special place with us. 

We arrived to a wet afternoon and enjoyed tea and biscuits on the deck watching the rain. Fortunately the rain lifted and we were able to enjoy a first walk. We didn’t have to go far as an orangutan mom and baby were in a tree nearby the DVRC foraging and getting ready to nest for the night. A very special sighting. Our second wild orangutan sighting. 

Our second wild orangutan sighting

They were quite high up, while we had a good sighting, it was difficult to get good pictures 

That first night, Jeffery arranged for us to join a night drive. It was so dark! The guides were amazing at finding things though! Special mentions of sightings include binturongs, red flying squirrel, Thomas’s flying fox, flying fox, flying squirrel, a mouse deer, and a brown wood owl. We must have driven right past so many things, creatures are so quiet and good at hiding. We had never heard of a binturong, have you? So we had no idea what we were looking at lol. It’s a kind of bearcat and is a very unusual and rare sighting, we had no idea how lucky we were. There was a large fruiting tree and it was very active and busy in there! The second night Jeffery took us for a walk and highlights include a Malaysian civet and a buffy fish owl. 

Brown hood owl 

Pheasant 

Kingfisher 

Frog 

Buffy fish owl 

The days followed a similar pattern of early morning walks and evening walks but we didn’t have to go far as there was a large fruiting fig tree right at the accommodation. The first morning we enjoyed the antics of a family of gibbons in this fig tree chasing off the long tail macaques, with a black squirrel and a pygmy squirrel in the mix too. Oh my goodness, the pygmy squirrel was so sweet! So small but so active, shaking his little body and tail, so very precious. 

Family of gibbons feeding in the fruiting fig tree 

Gibbons and a pygmy squirrel 🩷

The second morning a male orangutan had discovered the fig tree and taken up residence in a tree nearby, we saw him making his nest the evening before. Our third wild orangutan sighting, so lucky! He was so close to us. For the most part he was pretty chilled but he did get grumpy and started shaking the tree at one point. 

Our third and final wild orangutan sighting, a male this time

On the one full day we had at Danum Valley, Jeffery took us for a long walk through the forest. We didn’t really see any animals but it was so quiet and peaceful and just so lovely being in the forest. We did see lots of small things such as the flat or tractor millipede, pill millipede, various butterflies, lots of cool different fungi, various spiders including golden orb, and a very special ebony tree. 

We shared a trip with a wonderful Italian family 

This is all of us listening to Jeffery explaining something on our day walk in Danum Valley 

Chameleon

One juvenile and one adult of the same species 

Various fungi and an orchid on our day walk 

Our wonderful guide Jeffery 

After our long morning walk, we went to go find a spot in the river for a swim 

and came across this monitor lizard crossing the road on the way 

A small on the river bank, the perfect spot for a refreshing swim 

After a long walk in the forest, a family of red leaf monkeys joined us for lunch. We had prime seats on the deck and watched them for hours. They were also chasing the macaques away just as the gibbons had. 

Lunch with red leaf monkeys

The list of what we saw at Danum Valley:

Animals: Orangutans, gibbons, red leaf monkey, deer, Malaysian civet, binturong, red flying squirrel, Thomas’s flying squirrel, flying fox, black squirrel, pygmy squirrel, mouse deer, chameleon, rock monitor lizard, tiger leech, adder. 

Insects: flat or tractor millipede, pill millipede, various butterflies, various spiders including golder orb, a tarantula, and a huntsman. 

Birds: Oriental pied hornbill, buffy fish owl, pheasant, white crowned fork-tail, Malaysian blue flycatcher, kingfisher. 

After the last orangutan sighting, it was time to leave Danum Valley. It was another long and bumpy car journey to our next destination: Semporna and the islands of Mabul and Sipadan. 

A big thank you to River Junkie and our wonderful guide Jeffery for a fantastic 5 days in the forest! Highly recommend!  

More on our snorkelling and diving adventures in Mabul next time!