Ireland. Home of the friendliest people on earth, even the passport
control officer thanks you for coming. Where sheep graze contentedly in pastures
on rolling green hills. Where breath taking views await you around every
corner. Home of castles, famous stones, waterfalls, babbling brooks, Guinness,
four leaf clovers and of course, rain.
In the spring in the Netherlands all the public holidays of the year are
strung together in a space of a couple of weeks, starting with Easter and ending
with Pentecost. Last weekend was the Ascension Day long weekend and like last
year, we decided to get out for a long weekend away of exploring!
After yet another hair raising are-we-aren’t-we-going-to-make-it trip to
the airport, we set off for the Emerald Isle. Our previous visit to Ireland
included only Dublin and immediate surroundings. This time we headed down
South, to County Cork and county Kerry.
We arrived quite late on the Wednesday night but this gave us a full day
of exploring in Thursday. Wednesday and Thursday night we stayed in Cork city
itself. Thursday dawned grey and gloomy but we set off into the city centre anyway
with tummies full of a big cooked breakfast, the Irish way (read: soda bread,
eggs and salmon). We were disappointed with Cork city; although there are a few
nice main shopping streets, it is a very industrial town. Being right on the
harbour you probably can’t expect much more. However, the country side
surrounding Cork is quick lovely.
By lunch time the skies had cleared and we headed off to find a small
town made famous by a ruined castle and a stone. Blarney is a short 20 minute
drive from Cork and well worth the visit. The current Blarney castle is the
third to be built on the site and was home to the MacCarthy family. The Blarney
Castle grounds are massive and kept quite stately. There is a stream flowing
through it and many sign-posted walks guide you around the grounds. We climbed
the narrow winding steps up to the very top parapet, leaned over backwards, and
kissed the famous Blarney stone. I am still waiting for the gift of eloquence
to come flowing forth but here is to hoping it will still to come! On the way
down we enjoyed exploring what is left of the castle and imagining what it was
like for the family to live there, entertaining and being waited on hand and
foot. Most of the rooms are not whole anymore, but there are signs everywhere
indicating what each room was used for. After the castle we wandered around the
poison garden, rock close where the witch of Blarney lives, and enjoyed a cup
of tea with a scone at the stable yard.
Blarney Castle
Blarney Tower
Blarney House on the castle grounds
Boibs walking around the rock close
Thursday morning we headed to our next stop Killarney but the long way
around! We took the scenic route along the River Lee, down to Bantry Bay (the
original?) with lunch at Bantry House, along the Ring of Beare, joining up with
the Ring of Kerry, past Kenmare, through the Lakes of Killarney and finally at
our accommodation. It was a beautiful drive but the roads are very windy and
there is no ways you can drive at the 100 km speed limit! We arrived quite late
but in time for dinner and in the pouring rain! Our hosts were very gracious
and met us at the car with umbrellas. In true Murphy style, the rain stopped a
few minutes after we arrived. We now know why Ireland is always so green, how
there can be so many different shades of green and why green is the national
colour: it is always raining!!
View of the ruined fortifications at Macroom on the River Lee
Fields of sheep! In the Killarney Lakes area
Our very comfortable room overlooking Loch Lein.
Thank you Loch Lein Country House Hotel for a great weekend break!
Saturday arrived and our day for exploring the Ring of Kerry! It rained
on and off the whole day but we still had a lovely day exploring. We were able
to time our stops out of the car with the breaks in the weather! The ring of
Kerry is the road that goes around County Kerry. It is about 180 km long but will
take 3 hours to do at the fastest. But of course there are many cool places to
stop along the way so no one does it in 3 hours.
Our first stop was the Gap of Dunloe, which means gap of the commonland.
It is a narrow mountain pass between Macgillycuddy’s Reeks and the Purple
Mountain. The River Loe connects the five lakes in the area. It was really
beautiful walking around here with sheep dotted everywhere. It was so still and
peaceful. A real highlight of the ring.
Gap of Dunloe
The wishing bridge crossing over the River Loe
We continued on to a small island connected to Kerry by a bridge.
Valentia Island is only 11 km across but home to some of the most amazing
views and scenery! We stopped at the slate quarry with views over the bay. A
farmer has opened his land so you can drive right up to and walk around the Fogher
Cliffs. Wow! Really spectacular views and super windy! The annual triathlon
happened to be on the day we were visiting so some roads were closed but we saw
everything that was recommended to us (thanks Paul at Loch Lain!).
Boibs at Valentia Island
View of the Fogher Cliffs
It was so windy at the Fogher Cliffs! Couldn't even keep a straight face!
From Valentia Island we took a detour off the Ring of Kerry to follow
the Ring of Skellig. Wow, amazing scenery; hills with every shade of green,
sheep everywhere, rugged coastlines, winding roads, Skellig rock, hidden away
beaches with slip ways. Just amazing. And the best part: tourist busses are not
allowed on this road! We didn’t always know where we were going or what there
was to see, but we found amazing sights anyway. Living in the unbelievably flat
Netherlands, we are starved for mountains and sheer cliffs. This trip we were
able to feast our eyes and stock up on images to last us a while =)
Skellig Rock
Places to stumble upon on the Skellig Ring
Views on Skellig Ring
We continued on the Ring of Kerry to the small but charming town of
Kenmare where we found a lovely place to stop off for tea and scones. Noticing
a trend yet?
Colourful streets of Kenmare
Between Kenmare and Killarney is Moll’s Gap and the Lakes of Killarney. Yet
still even more wow! More amazing scenery, this time with lakes instead of the
ocean but add waterfalls and streams flowing over rocky beads. Just beautiful.
Closer to Killarney we found Ross Castle, home of the O’Donoghue clan and
situated on the edge of Lough Leane. The castle was closed by the time we got
there but we were still able to walk around it and take in the views from all
angles. The grounds are open and people come to walk their dogs and bring their
children to feed the ducks. It has a friendly and homely feel.
Our final stop for the day was Killarney, probably the biggest town on
the Ring of Kerry and very lively on a Saturday night. We were able to squeeze
into a local place, called Paddy’s of course, for dinner. The whole weekend we
were in search of a traditional beef and Guinness stew or pie but so far had no
luck. At Paddy’s we settled for roast leg of lamb instead and were not
disappointed! What a great meal.
Views of the Lakes of Killarney
Torc Waterfall
Area surrounding Torc Waterfall
Ross Castle on Loch Leane
Our last day arrived and the last chance for Justin to try black and
white pudding at breakfast. We were flying out of Cork again but had a little
bit of time for some last minute exploring. We headed down to Cork and went a
little further to the coastal town of Kinsale. Another charming little town of
only two or three streets with brightly coloured shops and houses. Time for a
last cup of tea and scone and to write some postcards! We also stopped in at
the Charles Fort on the hill overlooking the town. Charles Fort is one of the
finest surviving examples of a 17th Century star shaped fort. It was
still in use up until 1922 when it was burned by retreating troops in the Irish
Civil War. But much of the fort remains and it makes for a pleasant Sunday
afternoon amble.
A corner in Kinsale
Entrance to Charles Fort
Charles Fort overlooking the bay
And then it was time to fly back to the Netherlands =(
It was a lovely weekend away and we had a wonderful time! Highlights of
the weekend were Blarney and Blarney Castle, Gap of Dunloe, Valentia Island, Skellig Ring Lakes of Killarney area and Charles Fort. We definitely recommend exploring
County Kerry! We look forward to exploring more of Ireland in the future =)
When we left, the Netherlands was experiencing some lovely belated
Spring weather but this week it has cold and rainy again with more of the same
forecast for the week ahead =( This weekend is also the last of the long
weekends until Christmas. But we have a lovely trip to Switzerland in June to
look forward to. Hope the sun finds us there!
This week Justin is in Vietnam for work. He is in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly
known as Saigon) and Ha Noi. Watch this space for a post on his so far very
interesting time there!
Have a good week everyone!
x
