We had just arrived and were all feeling ravenous. We decided that, being in a new country, it only seemed right to try the local food. We found a place that promised to serve local, traditional food, and asked the owner to recommend a few dishes for us to share. Now when it comes to spicy food, I really enjoy it hot, and have come to think of Thai food as the pinnacle of spiciness. Well, that was until I tried the food in Laos. The food was fantastic, but it gave a serious kick. At first I thought that maybe we had stumbled on an eatery where the chef had a heavy hand with the chilies. But, as we found out the next day, Laotians have a good laugh when anybody talks about Thai food being spicy, and instead consider it to be a mild alternative to what they are used to.
And did I mention that while we were sitting at this restaurant, having our taste buds being given a good working over, that a scorpion, and quite a decent sized one, came scurrying past our table? No, the food wasn't causing us to hallucinate, and no the scorpion hadn't escaped from the kitchen. We did ask. The waiter quite happily scooped the scorpion up with a pan and brush, and released it back into the wild, which for this scorpion meant back onto the streets of Vientiane, the capital of Laos. And this was my introduction to Vientiane and Laos (which by the way has a silent 's', and so rhymes with cow).
I was in Vientiane with some colleagues for a work trip, and had organised to spend an extra day after all the meetings were finished to do some exploring.
Laos has a population of just under 7 million, with about 800,000 of those living in the capital. Compared to Vietnam, which has a population of about 93 million, and Ho Chi Minh City, which has a population of about 12 million, this really did feel like visiting a small town. And this was great, because it meant that the city was small enough to walk to almost all the main attractions.
Patuxai Victory Monument. Regarded as the Laos version of the Arc de Triomphe, this arch has pride of place at the top end of one of Vientiane's main streets.
We had been informed that 2018 was the year the Laos government was focusing on promoting tourism. The problem though was that by August, the campaign was yet to get off the ground. Apparently, and I am repeating what a local told me, Laotians are not very good at promoting themselves. This was also evident at the Patuxai monument. While everybody else around the world is doing all they can to promote their tourist attractions, the Laos authorities have put up a sign that reads "At the northeastern end of LaneXang Ave arises a huge structure resembling the Arc de Triomphe. From a closer distance, it appears even less impressive, like a monster of concrete". So yes, still some lessons to be learnt on marketing and promoting themselves.
One of the buildings in the complex that surrounds That Luang.
That Luang, above and below. Also called the Vientiane Great Stupa. This is the most sacred monument in the country. Apparently originally built in the 3rd century, but with the current monument dating from 1566. Apparently early November is the time to visit as this is when That Luang hosts the main Buddhist celebration in Laos.
Statues at That Luang.
Also part of the That Luang complex, a reclining Buddha.
Similar to Thailand, but with their own unique design, the local tuk tuk is the best and most affordable way to get around.
The photos below are from various temples and monuments, including Wat Si Muang, Wat Phra Kaew, Sisaket Temple, That Dam, Xieng Nyeun Temple, and Wat Inpeng.
Wat Sisaket, which houses thousands of Buddha images.
More photos of Patuxai.
And some modern buildings. Lao National Cultural Hall above, and the Presidential Palace below.
Although predominantly Buddhist, I did also find this church.
I also visited the Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Enterprise (COPE). COPE raises awareness about the devastating effect that the war between Vietnam and America had on Laos. As you can see from the photo below, Laos now faces the extreme challenge of having to clear unexploded ordnances. In addition to raising awareness, COPE also helps victims to be fitted with artificial limbs. Laos has the unfortunate record of being the most bombed country, per capita, in history.
Vientiane is located on the Mekong River, with the river also forming the boundary between Laos and Thailand. Enjoying the sunset from the river banks is considered a must when visiting Vientiane.
I found a day and a half in Vientiane more than enough time to explore this city, and also a great introduction to Laos. The people are extremely friendly, which actually applies to most of South-East Asia. The food, with all its spiciness, is very good. And it is not overly touristy here. I think Laos is definitely worth a visit, but also including a trip further afield than just Vientiane. Next time.
