Japan. The land of the rising sun, volcanoes, kimonos, sushi, sake, snow, and cherry blossoms. We expected all of this but Japan you delivered so much more!
We’d wanted to go to Japan for the longest time, it was supposed to be Bron’s 40th birthday trip but covid put paid to that idea. We decided to try again this year and there we were, finally on our way! After a wonderful 2 week trip in Vietnam, Bron’s twin sister Michelle flew back to the UK on the Thursday night and the Friday passed in a flurry of laundry and packing and getting ready to head to the airport. It’s a short 5 hour flight to Japan from Vietnam, taking off after midnight and arriving around 07:30 the next morning. From the moment we landed it was very clear that everything in Japan is very different. And how we loved it!
We arrived in Osaka and with only one day to explore this city, there was no time to waste! After securing a local sim card, two week train passes, and a snack (syrup pancakes), we were on a train headed to the city. First stop: drop our bags at the hotel. It was quite funny throughout our trip how hotel staff were quite shocked that we’d arrived so early to check in, embarrassed almost. Definitely no early check ins in Japan, not even 15 minutes lol, but we were at least able to drop our bags.
Sunnies, hats, and sunblock grabbed, it was HOT, we headed to Osaka Castle. First built in 1586 and subsequently destroyed many times by wars, lightning and fires, the current structure dates from 1931. It is smaller than the original but still impressive and built in likeness to the original wooden structure. Surrounded by a moat, the castle is situated in a huge park which was the former western citadel. The inside is very modern with an elevator and air conditioning. The lower floors house a museum displaying impressive samurai armour and history of the castle’s turbulent early years of feudal wars. We wound our way up the staircase through the exhibits and enjoyed impressive views over the whole city from the top floor. Earlier in the week someone suggested that we skip Osaka Castle but I’m really glad we didn’t, it was a great first stop in Japan and we highly recommend it. We visited many castles in Japan and Osaka is one not to miss. After a stroll in the park and an ice cream break, it was time to move on.
Osaka Castle
Back on the metro, we headed to Shitennoji Temple, the first Buddhist Temple in Japan. Founded in 593 by Prince Shotoku Taishi, Shitennoji is one of the oldest temples in Japan. The complex was destroyed by fire many times over the years but was always reconstructed in the original style and design. This temple was really calm and quiet when we were there. The main structures are surrounded by a large sand zen garden and then a green garden around that too. We enjoyed wandering around the temple and grounds.
Shitennoji Temple, Osaka
Back on the metro, the last stop of the day was the Umeda Sky Building. A massive 173 m skyscraper, the Umeda Sky building consists of two tall towers connected by the Floating Garden Observatory, a ring on the top floors offering unrivalled 360° views across the city. We aimed to be at the top at sunset and arrived right on time. However, so did the rain and thunder. We enjoyed the amazing views and watching the storm roll in from the indoor cafe, but unfortunately the outside observatory area was closed due to the thunderstorm. It was still worth the visit though.
We really wanted to visit Dotonbori, a hip canal-side neighbourhood, for dinner, but our energy waned after two long days with not much sleep inbetween. Instead, we found a quaint family run sushi restaurant near the Umeda Sky Building. We enjoyed watching the friendly old man prepare our sushi and his generous fish portions. That’s a wrap for the first day. Time to head back to the hotel and get some much needed sleep. Even though we only had one day in Osaka, this felt like the right amount of time for us and enough time to see the main sights.
View from the Umeda Sky Building
Watching the storm approach
Sunday we travelled south to Hiroshima on our first experience of the bullet train! We covered the 326 km from Osaka to Hiroshima in 1.5 hours vs 4 hours by car. Clean, super comfortable, free wifi, flushing toilets with wash basins and soap, smooth, fast, on time, and covered by our rail pass. What’s not to love.
Bullet train selfie
Trams are the main way to get around Hiroshima, we caught one from the train station to the hotel and then to Shukkeien Garden. Translated as shrunken scenery garden, we enjoyed following the winding path around the mini-lake past tea houses, mini forests and mountains, and our first sighting of native koi fish. A great first experience of expertly manicured Japanese gardens.
Shukkeien Garden
First koi fish and turtles!
From Shukkeien Garden, we walked to Hiroshima Castle. Much smaller than Osaka Castle, but just as pretty. Also surrounded by a moat and big park. Along with much of the city, the castle was destroyed by the atomic bomb in 1945. The main keep, storehouse, main gate, and two turrets have since been rebuilt in the original style. We enjoyed the museum part of the castle and the views from the top of the main keep.
Hiroshima Castle
From the castle, we walked to the Peace Memorial Park where the rest of the afternoon was spent. The world’s first atomic bomb fell on Hiroshima at 08:15 on 06 August 1945 in an attempt to end World War II. The bomb was dropped in the political and commercial centre of the city, the area that is now the Peace Memorial Park. It was decided not to re-develop this area but to devote it to peace building initiatives instead. Throughout the park are different memorials to victims of the atomic bomb and also other wars.
The A-Bomb Dome is one of the most prominent sites in the park. A UNESCO Heritage Site, the dome is one of few buildings to survive the bomb blast. Conservation efforts are underway as the fragile building continues to crumble. The Cenotaph is an arched tomb with a stone chest containing the names of all those who died because of the bomb, either immediately by the blast or later due to the effects of radiation. Well thought out and placed in view of the A-Bomb Dome.
The A-Bomb Dome
The Cenotaph
View over the park from the Peace Memorial Museum
We found the Peace Memorial Hall very moving. Featuring many layers starting with a fountain on the ground floor to console those who died without the water they craved, a clock in the centre set at 08:15, and surrounded by debris from the bombing. A downward slope leads to the hall on the lower level. In the hall is a 360 panoramic photo of Hiroshima after the blast based on a photo taken by the US military. Below the photo are the names of 226 towns which existed at the time of the bombing. Most visitors seemed to walk past the hall but it really is worth a stop.
The Peace Memorial Hall
Other notable sites in the peace park include the Peace Clock Tower, Children’s Peace Monument (funds for which were raised by classmates of a girl who died from cancer after radiation exposure from the blast), the Peace Bell, and the Flame of Peace.
The Peace Clock Tower
At the end of the park is the Peace Memorial Museum. The main focus is on the events of 6 August 1945, the dropping of the bomb, and the human suffering that followed including victims that died immediately and subsequently from exposure to radiation and in some cases the onset of various cancers. There are many personal stories of victims’ families and personal belongings and artefacts. The scale of destruction and suffering is harrowing and hard to comprehend. The museum has done a very good job at putting it all together. The last section has information on current nuclear weapon development and stark warnings to never let Hiroshima happen again.
Not knowing what to expect in Hiroshima, we unexpectedly experienced a profound sense of peace and only well wishes for the rest of the world. There were no feelings of woe is us and no ill feelings toward the US or any other country, truly remarkable. There truly is a sense of we don’t want to see this happen anywhere in the world ever again. Good for you Japan, may your wish come true.
The Peace Memorial Museum
By the time we left the park it was already sunset and time to find dinner. Justin is a whizz at Google Maps and found a highly rated okonomiyaki restaurant. Popular throughout the country with each city putting their own spin on it. Okonomi means to your liking and has a base of cabbage, bean sprouts, noodles and egg topped with green onion cooked on an open griddle. Other ingredient options include pork, squid, cheese, and corn. This restaurant is so popular the queue can be up to 2 hours long! We waited around an hour for a table but the time went quickly and we enjoyed watching the chefs cooking. Our okonomiyaki eventually arrived and it was massive! We were ravenous though and ate it all lol. It was really delicious but not an everyday meal. All in all a great second day in Japan.
Okonomiyaki!
From Hiroshima we took a local train and then a short ferry ride to Miyajima, a small island just off the coast from Hiroshima. Miyajima means shrine island and is most well known for the Itsukushima Shrine and the famous floating red Grand O-Torii Gate, one of the most iconic images of Japan. It’s little wonder that Miyajima is cited as one of the three most scenic sights in Japan.
Most people visit Miyajima as a day trip from Hiroshima and indeed the island seems to cater specifically for day trippers (it’s near impossible to find somewhere open for dinner), but we decided to stay the night to experience the island at sunset and sunrise. We enjoyed a very cosy traditional Japanese style room with futon on the floor, our first of three traditional stays and enjoyed it very much. Each accommodation in Japan also provided PJs or room clothes in the style of a robe called a yukata. It was really fun trying on the different styles at the different places we stayed at.
Our cosy Japanese style room and yakatas in Miyajima
Exploring started at the station with a small park and several statues and monuments. Here we had our first introduction to the wild but sort of tame free roaming deer that live on the island. Through the day we would witness many a paper tourist map and souvenir be stolen by the ever snack seeking deer. Our map got nibbled on too but I managed to rescue it mostly whole.
Miyajima deer
From the station we walked through the Omotesando shopping arcade, which was just opening up for the day, down to the Itsukushima Shrine and Grand O-Torii Gate. It was low tide when we arrived and so possible to walk on the temporary beach right up to the gate. Itsukushima shrine is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the three Munakata goddesses and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The red lacquer of the shrine and O-Torii Gate is considered to keep evil spirits away. We ambled through the shrine and along the promenade down to the Kyomori shrine, enjoying views of the Grand O-Torii from all sides. The present O-Torii was erected in 1875 and stands under its own weight of about 60 tons. We also stopped in at the Daiganji Temple, the small but noteworthy treasure hall, and enjoyed the quaint streets of that area.
Itsukushima shrine, at low and high tide
Miyajima is also well known for fresh oysters so at lunch time we headed back to the place we had identified earlier on our stroll through the shopping arcade. Generally I am not a fan of oysters but man these were good! We ordered a couple of different things to share and tried the fried oysters, oysters barbecued in the shell, and oysters cooked on rice. The biggest oysters we’ve ever seen and sooo tasty. Definitely try the oysters in Miyajima even if you’re not an oyster fan!
Oysters!
Our new favourite thing: matcha ice-cream
After lunch we went a bit further out of town and up the hill to Daishoin temple. A sprawling complex on the slopes of the sacred Mount Misen, Daishoin temple was founded by the monk Kukai in 806 and is an important temple for Shingon Buddhism. There are many different halls, statues, and features to this temple and it’s so green and full of trees, and there’s moss growing on everything. Highly recommend an amble around this temple, it was really unexpected and one of the best temples we’ve been to in Japan.
Daishoin Temple
From Daishoin we continued on to a part of Momijidani Park and came back through some streets on the back side of town. The whole of Miyajima is just so quaint and well preserved, really is well worth the effort to come to this tiny island. There is also a cable car to the top of Mount Misen but we decided not to do that this time.
At sunset we were back at the water’s edge for sunset with the Grand O-Torii Gate this time at high tide for the full floating effect. The morning we were back at the gate for first light early morning views also at high tide and for a look around the 5 storied pagoda near Itsukushima Shrine that we’d missed the day before.
The Grand O-Torii Gate at sunset
And at sunrise
Itsukushima shrine at sunrise
The 5 pillar pagoda at sunrise
And that’s a wrap of Miyajima and the first three very full days in Japan! We averaged 12 to 15 km of walking a day on this trip! With so many things crammed in, it’s easy to see how.
From Miyajima it was a long travel day to our next destination with first the ferry to Hiroshima terminal, the local train to Hiroshima station, the bullet train to Osaka and a final train to Kyoto. We were very happy to have 4 nights in Kyoto and a break from carrying luggage around!
See you next time for more on our time in Kyoto!
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