Sunday 27 January 2013

UK Visitors

This weekend we had visitors from the UK! Justin met Martin at res at UCT and they shared an apartment together for a year. Both are now married and doing the work and travel abroad thing. We love getting together to catch up especially in new and exciting places. Martin and his wife Kirsten joined us in Southern Spain in Jan 2012 and we caught up in London in May 2012. This time they popped over to stay with us in Rotterdam and we introduced them to some local Dutch favourites.

Things have been a hectic lately for all four of us so we decided to take it easier and not mission too much. Also, it snowed most of Saturday morning and temperatures were still below zero. Not so great for exploring and sight-seeing. After collecting Martin and Kirsten from Rotterdam airport on Saturday morning, the bags were dropped off at home and we set out for exploring Rotterdam! First stop was the local Saturday market to ogle all the cheese, herring and flower stands. On the way we sampled fresh hot stroopwafels! A must on any trip to the Netherlands! The tour continued with a walk around the old harbour area, the pencil and cube houses which started the funky modern architecture craze that Rotterdam has going on. Of course a few snow balls were thrown and many photos were taken! Time to warm up with a hot chocolate in a local bakery and then head home for an awesome meal prepared by Justin! Thank you Boib! A cosy evening at home with a movie on the couch followed =)




A seagull in the snow is such an odd sight! Makes for great photos though.


Stroopwafels!


Fresh fish at the market


Fresh produce at the market


The old harbour frozen over


Bron and Kirsten


Martin and Justin


Duck tracks in the snow on the ice



Sunday dawned rainy and gloomy with sounds of ice falling off the roof. Yay! We were finally above 0ºC for the first time in two weeks! Hooray for the rain and warmer temperatures to melt all the icy snow. The snow has been quite pretty but also caused a lot of disruptions and we are so over the freezing temperatures! A day sloshing around in the melting icy snow ensued…

Despite the rain and 5ºC, we headed to The Hague to experience an older Dutch city and find a good pancake place! We showed Martin and Kirsten the important old parts of The Hague, such as the Nieuwe Kerk, the Mauritshuis (although it is covered in scaffolding for renovations), the City Hall and the Binnenhof. We did some high street browsing and found an awesome kitchen gadget shop!

Then it was pancake time! Dutch pancakes are so different to the crepe style pancake we know. They are thicker, bigger, not rolled up but served flat, and the filling is baked into the dough. Sweet or savoury, they are delicious! Our favourites are bacon or ham, cheese and syrup and just good old apple.

Then it was time to head back to Rotterdam and get ready for the airport =( 




Kirsten, Martin and Bron at the Binnenhof in The Hague


Pancake time!!


Thanks for coming to visit us Marts and Kirst!! Was awesome having you! Come again soon! Next time we will do Amsterdam, the tulips and the windmills! Have a good week and good luck for all the deadlines and craziness!

Have a good week everybody!

x

Sunday 20 January 2013

Barcelona, Madrid and Segovia

The second half of our Spanish holiday started with a long drive from Valencia back to Barcelona starting at 06:45. We made it back in good time to drop off our rental car before 11:00 and meet Brenainn and Kirsten at the airport and then head off to get settled!

Bren and Kirst had used housetrip.com to book all their accommodation for their European holiday and for the Spanish leg. On house trip people rent out their convenient inner city apartments at good rates for short stays. So far they had had really good experiences but that was all about to change! After waiting outside the apartment for 45 min to check in, the guy phoned to say he was still cleaning and could we wait. Sorry what?! The apartment was really conveniently situated but not exactly clean and looked suspiciously like a rocking New Year’s Eve party had gone down the night before. Not a good first experience for J&B but that would fortunately change after Madrid.

The day had already almost passed so we decided to get our admin out of the way so the next day could be used for exploring! The girls went to the local Laundromat while the boys organised train tickets to Madrid for our next leg of the holiday.

Evening came and we headed into the city! Our apartment was in the Gothic city centre and that first evening we enjoyed wandering around the streets, still festive with Christmas lights and many stores open, ambling along La Rambla and of course finding a good Tapas bar for more pinchos!

Bron and Justin have been to Barcelona (and Madrid) before but were looking forward to seeing some of the things we missed the first time, such as Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia. Construction on this Temple of the Holy Family started in 1882 and Antoni Gaudi got involved and changed many of the plans in 1883. Unfortunately Gaudi passed away in 1926, construction slowed down and funds were thin neither of which were helped by the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939). Construction is still not complete but the roof is on, which allows visitors inside, and the church was consecrated by the Pope in 2010. The plan is to have it finished by the 100 year anniversary of Gaudi’s death in 2026.

Last time we chose not to go in due to the long queue, the rather pricey entrance fee and not being really convinced by the style. This time we decided to see what all the fuss is about and got organised and bought tickets online. At first we held onto our view that the building is a bit random. But after taking a closer look and listening to the audio guide, we started to appreciate the building and the passion behind the design. The extra museum-type section in the church on Gaudi and Nature also really helped to explain the symbolism behind Gaudi’s ideas. We left feeling impressed, inspired and respectful of Antoni Gaudi and his work. We highly recommend a visit to the Sagrada Familia if you are in Barcelona but buy your tickets online and get the audio guide! Looking forward to the day when it is finally finished.

The rest of the day Justin and Bronwen went on to explore more of the Gothic city centre that they missed out on last time and soak up some sun at the harbour while Bren and Kirsten found more of Gaudi’s buildings and explored Park Guell. We only had one day to explore Barcelona which was sad but we saw and did a lot in our one day.





The Sagrada Familia


Up in one of the towers


Construction is still ongoing, and likely to be for a long time


Bren getting creative in one of the towers at the Sagrada Familia


Inside the Sagrada Familia



The columns in the church are designed to look like tree trunks



Another of Anton Gaudi's creations; Casa Batllo on the right


Down at the port

The next day we jumped on a high speed train to Madrid nice and early and headed to check into our accommodation. Our Madrid housetrip.com accommodation was so much better than Barcelona and was much more like what we expected. The people were so friendly, the house was clean and really well equipped, each couple had their own bedroom and bathroom and it was so cosy! It was home away from home. If you are planning a trip to Madrid, we highly recommend this one! (Get in touch with us if you want more details.)

J&B spent the afternoon getting to know Madrid, again. We walked from our accommodation at Pyramides up to Plaza de Toledo, to Plaza Mayor and onto Puerto de Sol to say hi to the Bear and the Strawberry tree, then down Gran Via to the National Geographic café where we had a tea and snack break before heading onto Plaza de Espana. How to see Madrid in one day! At Plaza de Espana we greeted Don Quixote and browsed the Christmas market. We discovered that the Spanish give Christmas gifts at Epiphany 12 days after Christmas so we were caught in the middle of last minute Christmas shopping! In the evening we caught up with B&K again and headed back to Sol where the Christmas tree of lights was now on. We had a lovely evening taking pictures and sharing a meal together.



Pinchos!



Bron discovers an arty tree


Plaza de Espana



The girls and the healthy option


The boys and the VERY healthy option


The first stop the next morning was the Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, the largest bullring in Spain and Europe. J&B visited the bull ring in Ronda during their last trip to Spain and were curious to compare. Apparently the actual bull ring in Ronda is larger but Las Ventas has more seating space. In Ronda we walked around the whole bull ring by ourselves; on the sand in the ring, in the stands, around the horse and bull quarters. At Las Ventas we had a guided tour, this meant we had less freedom to walk around but more detailed information. Our guide was very good and explained to us the history or Las Ventas, the proceedings of a bull fight and the prestige of Matadors. We are still not convinced by the whole idea and I don’t think we would go to a bull fight but it is still interesting to visit a bull ring. Bull fighting is so quintessentially Spanish. If you want to understand Spain, then you have to attempt to understand bull fighting. Apart from all the details, we loved the actual building. It is in the typical Moorish style with many arches and tiles, it is really beautiful. It was just a pity that the circus had taken up residence in the middle of the ring for the low season obscuring views around the ring.

The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring Madrid with B&K, finding the best ice cream outside of Italy, looking for the perfect scarf and leather items and enjoying each other’s company =) However, in the evening we discovered that the metro service was experiencing a strike which was not ayoba for getting around the city over the next few days.  


Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas


Puerta del Sol - the Bear and the Madrono (strawberry) Tree


Yum!


Eating ice-cream in Plaza Mayor




The next day we jumped on another high speed train and headed to Segovia for a day of exploring! Segovia is well known for its well preserved Roman aqueduct and has a Royal Alcazar, a Gothic Cathedral and old city walls. The bus from the train station deposited us at the foot of the aqueduct and from there we wandered about the narrow streets until we found the main square and the cathedral. Unfortunately it was closed that day so we couldn’t go in but it is still impressive from the outside. Then on to the Alcazar. This castle-palace was built as a fortress on a rocky crag above where the Eresma and Clamores rivers meet near the Guadarrama mountains. The view from the palace and towers over the fields and the cathedral towards the mountains is spectacular. We especially enjoyed soaking up the sun on the tower while enjoying the good view. Lunch was had on a sunny terrace back in the main square and the rest of the afternoon was spent walking along the old city walls approaching the aqueduct from a different angle. Back in Madrid we were pleased to find the metro strike over and had a pleasant relaxed evening at the apartment with a creative local meal by Justin while B&K packed. 



Roman Aqueduct in Segovia




The Alcazar



View of the Cathedral and the town from the Alcazar


Inside the Alcazar





Sunday arrived and with it the end of Bren and Kirsten’s European holiday =( We had such a great time with you guys!! Come visit us again soon! B&K were off to the airport for the long journey back to Cape Town while J&B still had the whole of Sunday and Monday before having to think about work and the cold awaiting in Rotterdam.

Sunday was also the beginning of Bron’s cold so a slow day ensued. Every Sunday the streets of the La Latina area are taken over by the El Rastro market. We had fun browsing the stalls and enjoying the sun. In the afternoon we took home made sandwiches to our favourite park and vegged in the sun watching people paddle-boat in the lake. A quiet evening followed with a nap and dinner at a local restaurant.




The El Rastro Market



Bron getting lost in her cup of Chai tea at the National Geographic Cafe


And then it was Monday and our last day of holiday =( We were so looking forward to a last day in the sun and were severely disappointed when the day dawned cloudy and cold. But we made the most of it with a last trip into the city for a postcard writing session and lunch at the National Geographic Café. All too soon we were on a plane and then a bus and tram and back at our front door. It was a wonderful holiday but of course over way too soon!

The sun break has stood us in good stead for the lousy weather we are currently having. It has been seriously cold over the last week. It has been between 0ºC and -7ºC or so with a lot of snow on Monday and Tuesday causing chaos with the trains. I do not recommend cycling in this weather! But it has to be done. It is snowing again today and is forecast to snow more in the week. Last year was much colder, around -15ºC in the day, but was only for 2 weeks.

At the moment we find ourselves at the beginning of Elfstedenkoorts. Hype for the 200 km eleven city skating race is much less this year than last after the country was so disappointed at the outcome. On Thursday news was that there was an 80% chance of it occurring this year but all the snow is going to decrease that. Only time will tell! We would love to experience an Elfstedentocht while living here but think it would also be quite crazy. The last race was held in 1996 and the Dutch are so ready for another one. Watch this space!

In other news we are patiently awaiting the arrival of Michelle and Graham’s first child who was officially due on Friday, the 18 th of Jan. All the best guys! We can’t wait to meet you little one =)

And we seem to finally be getting over our colds. Hopefully for good! Hope you are all well and enjoying the SA summer!

x

Sunday 13 January 2013

Tortosa, Tarragona and Valencia

After Bren and Kirsten’s 4 day stay with us in Rotterdam they moved onto Nuremberg in Germany while we had to face the last working week of the year. And what a long week it was! But we had our real Christmas tree to cheer us up and Christmas holidays to look forward to =)

Christmas Day dawned as gloomy as the previous week had been but relatively warm for the time of year, ~8ºC. We had a quiet day at home opening gifts, phoning family, and getting ready for our Spanish adventure!

We were invited to have Christmas dinner with a family we have become friendly with through Justin playing cricket and coaching, Annebo and Toon and their three children. Annebo's parents were there too and their neighbours. We asked what we can bring and were told something typically South African so we took along Christmas crackers complete with silly hats and fruit mince pies! (Fortunately for us these things are also quite English so we were able to locate them at the big Waterstones book store in Amsterdam). We had a lovely evening making friends, drinking good wine, enjoying good food and improving our Dutch! Thank you for including us in your Christmas celebrations Verhoeven's! We had a great time =)

Christmas dinner was great but the alarm going off at 04:30 on Boxing Day was not! Note to self: do not book a 7:00 flight on Boxing Day again!! At least we had booked a taxi and didn't have to mission with trams and buses and in the end we were easily on time.

And then it was time for some Spanish sunshine! Hooray! Although not super toasty, when standing in the sun you can warm up quite nicely. We landed in Barcelona, picked up our rental car and drove South about 200 km to Tortosa for three nights in a real Spanish castle! Justin had booked it as a surprise for Bron and surprised she was! Think functional defendable castle rather than fairytale Scottish-type castle but very nice all the same. Tortosa itself looked a bit dodgy when we drove through so we were super glad to be safely perched up on the hill which also gave awesome views over the city and surrounds.



The Castle that we stayed in overlooking the town of Tortosa


The view from the Castle walls


The plan for our Spanish holiday was 5 days on our own, 6 days with Bren and Kirsten and another 2 days on our own. Normally when we travel we try to see as much  possible but this time the main aim was to chill and relax after a busy year! And of course try be outdoors and soak up as much sun as possible. It was quite a restful holiday but was also pretty busy at times too!

The first afternoon in Tortosa we explored the ruins of the castle grounds and old city walls and ventured into the city a bit, avoiding seedy looking alleys, only to find the Cathedral closed. The rest of the evening was spent chilling and drinking tea in the guest lounge =) We were quite spoilt with all the yummy dinners in the hotel's restaurant, even if dinner is only served from 8pm. Breakfast was an impressive buffet of local fair which we enjoyed in the morning sunshine overlooking the valley. Too much of bliss! 


Some street scenes from Tortosa:






The first day in Tortosa we explored the nature reserve of Delta de L'Ebre. This peninsula region of Southern Catalonia is a prosperous rice growing region and wildlife haven. It was a bit different to what we expected from a national park (no entrance fee and almost no signage) but we managed to find a place to park and go for a walk among the reeds where several look out hides had been placed for bird watching. We only saw a flock of flamingos but believe that this area is rich in bird life. We also found a beach hut cafe type place that must be very vibey in the summer where Justin had his first paella complete with squid ink and unidentifiable sea creatures. Bron was feeling less adventurous and went for the safe option of a plate of chips. After lunch we had a lovely long walk on the beach enjoying the almost forgotten feeling of the sand beneath our feet and between our toes. Spain in the winter is just awesome! 


Delta de l'Ebre:





The next day we went back in the direction of Barcelona to the town of Tarragona. Tarragona was an important Roman city in 3rd century BC and still has its original Roman aqueduct and amphitheatre. We enjoyed wondering around the ancient Roman part of the city and the views of the coast from the top of Nova Rambla and from the amphitheatre. After a lunch of croissants filled with the Spanish favourite, Iberican ham, it was time for some serious R&R at Aquum. A day spa attached to a hotel in Tarragona, Aquum has several cold, warm and hot pools with various water features and jets for a day of relaxing. We had a lovely relaxing afternoon floating in the warm water massaging ourselves with jets of water. So much of laziness!


Tarragonna:


2000 year old Roman Aqueduct (Pont de les Ferreres)


2nd Century AD Roman Amphiteatre


View of Tarragonna Cathedral


Old city centre



Enjoying an Iberian ham sandwich for lunch


A steel jungle just outside Tarragona (near Aquum)



The next day we headed further South to Valencia. Our hotel in Valencia overlooked the City of Arts and Sciences with its funky modern architecture and one of the craziest traffic circles we have ever seen! Driving in Spanish cities is an experience with a maze of one way streets and massive 6 lane circles at almost every intersection. Road rules are almost non-existent in these circles and one has to keep an eye on both neighbours at all times! People criss-cross all over the circle, you can exit the circle from the most centre lane and keep going round in the most outer lane. Too crazy! At breakfast one morning we took pity on a learner driver trying to negotiate the circle during a driving lesson.

The first afternoon in Valencia we left the car behind and caught a bus into the city. We survived the crazy circle and began exploring! We had a great afternoon wandering around the city soaking up the sunshine and enjoying the sights. We saw most of the main sights including the Cathedral and climbing up the bell tower, the Plaza de La Virgen, Plaza Manises, Mercado Central of central market where you can buy fresh produce everyday, Torres de Quart and Torres de Serranos. This was the warmest day of our trip and despite the wind it was great wandering around in the sunshine. There is also about an hour extra sunlight in Spain in the winter which really helps to beat the winter blues! 

Valencia:



Looking down from the top of the Cathedral


Meats for sale in the Historic Central Market (Mercado Central)



Bron at the Torres de Quart


Flags on the Torres de Quart


Stairs at the Torres de Quart


Plaza de la Virgen. 
The Turia fountain and the Cathedral in the background


Torres de Serranos
One of two remaining city gates from the 14th century


The restaurant of our hotel only opened at 20:30 (!) for dinner so we decided to eat in the city and discovered our new favourite thing: pinchos! Basically tapas on a stick, pinchos are found in almost all of the many tapas bars dotted around the city. How it works is grab a plate near the bar and help yourself, you touch it and it is yours. The barman will serve you drinks, sangria for Bron and a beer for Justin, and happily munch away! Keep all the sticks (mostly toothpicks) and pay per piece at the end. A great way to try lots of different local foods in one meal and actually quite economical too. Most of the times though you don’t know what you are choosing to eat before you bite it! Often we are pleasantly surprised at the complexity of a single tapas and the great mix of flavours and textures that you wouldn’t have guessed just looking at it on the plate. We had many pinchos meals over the next few days and sitting at the bar counter right under all the colourful platters was our favourite spot =)


Pinchos: tapas on a stick! 




The next day we decided to explore the oceanarium at the City of Arts and Sciences. Close enough to walk from our hotel, we wandered over and enjoyed the funky modern architecture of the City of Arts and Sciences buildings on the way to the oceanarium. The City of Arts and Sciences is made up of 5 buildings and consists of a concert hall, an IMAX theatre and planetarium designed to look like a blinking eye, a science museum, a car park with steel arches, and the oceanarium. Our favourites at the oceanarium was the dolphin show, the chubby seals that reminded us of the V&A Waterfront, the pair of Beluga whales, and the enclosed tank that you can walk through.


City of Arts and Sciences:


Principe Felipe Science Museum


The Agora concert hall


Hemisferic (IMAX theatre and planetarium, foreground) and the Palau de les Arts


Hemisferic, the Principe Felipe Science Museum and the Agora 
(left to right)


Hemisferic


Walking under a fish tank inside the Oceanografic


The Umbracle


The gardens in the Umbracle



In the evening we headed back into the city for our fix of pincho’s and sangria. Unbeknown to us there was a massive annual fun run on the go. Only in Spain in the middle of winter! The atmosphere in the city was very vibey and jovial but most of the streets were also closed which meant the busses weren’t running their normal routes. It was quite fun (not) working out where to catch the bus back from especially since English is not very big in Spain, even in the big cities. Funnily, all signs and products etc. come in two languages, Spanish and Catalonian!

The next day was New Year’s Eve and our last full day in Valencia. We decided to make the most of the sunshine with a long walk on the beach including a look at the yacht basin. Was so nice to have another walk on the beach and in the sun! The next day we had to be back in Barcelona, a 4 hour drive away, by 11:00. So it was a quiet night of bag packing and early to bed. We did however get our 12 grapes for the midnight countdown; the hotel gave out bags of grapes to all the guests. The tradition in Spain is that if you can eat all 12 grapes by the time the clock strikes 12, one for each strike, then you will have good luck in the New Year. This is much harder than it sounds and after two New Year’s in Spain we still didn’t get it right!

Another early alarm clock had us out of bed, checked out and on the road to Barcelona by 06:45. We were in good time to drop off our car and meet Bren and Kirsten at the airport in Barcelona.

More on our time with B&K in Barcelona and Madrid next time!

It has already been a week since we have been back in the Netherlands and back at work. Not much to say except that it is getting colder and we are both sick! The first half of the week was still an acceptable 8ºC or so but by Friday the temperatures had dropped to a max of between 0ºC and -2ºC. Snow is currently forecast for Tuesday with temperatures dropping further and remaining so for at least the next week. Fun times. We don’t mind the snow itself so much but the trains almost come to a standstill when one snowflake falls which they milk for as long as possible which becomes extremely annoying in the daily commute to work. Bron picked up a cold in Spain and has kindly shared it with Justin. So at the moment there are two code green Sheldon Coopers in the house. The weekend was spent indoors on the couch watching the 4 Ice Age movies box set =)

Hope you are all well and having a good start to the New Year! Wishing everyone the best for 2013. We hope to have many more travel adventures this year =)

‘till next time!

x


and some Christmas pics:


Some of the yummy fare on offer


The real reason it was difficult to get up when the alarm went of at 04:30 the next day! 


Gezellig!