Sunday, 20 January 2013

Barcelona, Madrid and Segovia

The second half of our Spanish holiday started with a long drive from Valencia back to Barcelona starting at 06:45. We made it back in good time to drop off our rental car before 11:00 and meet Brenainn and Kirsten at the airport and then head off to get settled!

Bren and Kirst had used housetrip.com to book all their accommodation for their European holiday and for the Spanish leg. On house trip people rent out their convenient inner city apartments at good rates for short stays. So far they had had really good experiences but that was all about to change! After waiting outside the apartment for 45 min to check in, the guy phoned to say he was still cleaning and could we wait. Sorry what?! The apartment was really conveniently situated but not exactly clean and looked suspiciously like a rocking New Year’s Eve party had gone down the night before. Not a good first experience for J&B but that would fortunately change after Madrid.

The day had already almost passed so we decided to get our admin out of the way so the next day could be used for exploring! The girls went to the local Laundromat while the boys organised train tickets to Madrid for our next leg of the holiday.

Evening came and we headed into the city! Our apartment was in the Gothic city centre and that first evening we enjoyed wandering around the streets, still festive with Christmas lights and many stores open, ambling along La Rambla and of course finding a good Tapas bar for more pinchos!

Bron and Justin have been to Barcelona (and Madrid) before but were looking forward to seeing some of the things we missed the first time, such as Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia. Construction on this Temple of the Holy Family started in 1882 and Antoni Gaudi got involved and changed many of the plans in 1883. Unfortunately Gaudi passed away in 1926, construction slowed down and funds were thin neither of which were helped by the Spanish Civil War (1936 – 1939). Construction is still not complete but the roof is on, which allows visitors inside, and the church was consecrated by the Pope in 2010. The plan is to have it finished by the 100 year anniversary of Gaudi’s death in 2026.

Last time we chose not to go in due to the long queue, the rather pricey entrance fee and not being really convinced by the style. This time we decided to see what all the fuss is about and got organised and bought tickets online. At first we held onto our view that the building is a bit random. But after taking a closer look and listening to the audio guide, we started to appreciate the building and the passion behind the design. The extra museum-type section in the church on Gaudi and Nature also really helped to explain the symbolism behind Gaudi’s ideas. We left feeling impressed, inspired and respectful of Antoni Gaudi and his work. We highly recommend a visit to the Sagrada Familia if you are in Barcelona but buy your tickets online and get the audio guide! Looking forward to the day when it is finally finished.

The rest of the day Justin and Bronwen went on to explore more of the Gothic city centre that they missed out on last time and soak up some sun at the harbour while Bren and Kirsten found more of Gaudi’s buildings and explored Park Guell. We only had one day to explore Barcelona which was sad but we saw and did a lot in our one day.





The Sagrada Familia


Up in one of the towers


Construction is still ongoing, and likely to be for a long time


Bren getting creative in one of the towers at the Sagrada Familia


Inside the Sagrada Familia



The columns in the church are designed to look like tree trunks



Another of Anton Gaudi's creations; Casa Batllo on the right


Down at the port

The next day we jumped on a high speed train to Madrid nice and early and headed to check into our accommodation. Our Madrid housetrip.com accommodation was so much better than Barcelona and was much more like what we expected. The people were so friendly, the house was clean and really well equipped, each couple had their own bedroom and bathroom and it was so cosy! It was home away from home. If you are planning a trip to Madrid, we highly recommend this one! (Get in touch with us if you want more details.)

J&B spent the afternoon getting to know Madrid, again. We walked from our accommodation at Pyramides up to Plaza de Toledo, to Plaza Mayor and onto Puerto de Sol to say hi to the Bear and the Strawberry tree, then down Gran Via to the National Geographic café where we had a tea and snack break before heading onto Plaza de Espana. How to see Madrid in one day! At Plaza de Espana we greeted Don Quixote and browsed the Christmas market. We discovered that the Spanish give Christmas gifts at Epiphany 12 days after Christmas so we were caught in the middle of last minute Christmas shopping! In the evening we caught up with B&K again and headed back to Sol where the Christmas tree of lights was now on. We had a lovely evening taking pictures and sharing a meal together.



Pinchos!



Bron discovers an arty tree


Plaza de Espana



The girls and the healthy option


The boys and the VERY healthy option


The first stop the next morning was the Plaza de Toros Las Ventas, the largest bullring in Spain and Europe. J&B visited the bull ring in Ronda during their last trip to Spain and were curious to compare. Apparently the actual bull ring in Ronda is larger but Las Ventas has more seating space. In Ronda we walked around the whole bull ring by ourselves; on the sand in the ring, in the stands, around the horse and bull quarters. At Las Ventas we had a guided tour, this meant we had less freedom to walk around but more detailed information. Our guide was very good and explained to us the history or Las Ventas, the proceedings of a bull fight and the prestige of Matadors. We are still not convinced by the whole idea and I don’t think we would go to a bull fight but it is still interesting to visit a bull ring. Bull fighting is so quintessentially Spanish. If you want to understand Spain, then you have to attempt to understand bull fighting. Apart from all the details, we loved the actual building. It is in the typical Moorish style with many arches and tiles, it is really beautiful. It was just a pity that the circus had taken up residence in the middle of the ring for the low season obscuring views around the ring.

The rest of the afternoon was spent exploring Madrid with B&K, finding the best ice cream outside of Italy, looking for the perfect scarf and leather items and enjoying each other’s company =) However, in the evening we discovered that the metro service was experiencing a strike which was not ayoba for getting around the city over the next few days.  


Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas


Puerta del Sol - the Bear and the Madrono (strawberry) Tree


Yum!


Eating ice-cream in Plaza Mayor




The next day we jumped on another high speed train and headed to Segovia for a day of exploring! Segovia is well known for its well preserved Roman aqueduct and has a Royal Alcazar, a Gothic Cathedral and old city walls. The bus from the train station deposited us at the foot of the aqueduct and from there we wandered about the narrow streets until we found the main square and the cathedral. Unfortunately it was closed that day so we couldn’t go in but it is still impressive from the outside. Then on to the Alcazar. This castle-palace was built as a fortress on a rocky crag above where the Eresma and Clamores rivers meet near the Guadarrama mountains. The view from the palace and towers over the fields and the cathedral towards the mountains is spectacular. We especially enjoyed soaking up the sun on the tower while enjoying the good view. Lunch was had on a sunny terrace back in the main square and the rest of the afternoon was spent walking along the old city walls approaching the aqueduct from a different angle. Back in Madrid we were pleased to find the metro strike over and had a pleasant relaxed evening at the apartment with a creative local meal by Justin while B&K packed. 



Roman Aqueduct in Segovia




The Alcazar



View of the Cathedral and the town from the Alcazar


Inside the Alcazar





Sunday arrived and with it the end of Bren and Kirsten’s European holiday =( We had such a great time with you guys!! Come visit us again soon! B&K were off to the airport for the long journey back to Cape Town while J&B still had the whole of Sunday and Monday before having to think about work and the cold awaiting in Rotterdam.

Sunday was also the beginning of Bron’s cold so a slow day ensued. Every Sunday the streets of the La Latina area are taken over by the El Rastro market. We had fun browsing the stalls and enjoying the sun. In the afternoon we took home made sandwiches to our favourite park and vegged in the sun watching people paddle-boat in the lake. A quiet evening followed with a nap and dinner at a local restaurant.




The El Rastro Market



Bron getting lost in her cup of Chai tea at the National Geographic Cafe


And then it was Monday and our last day of holiday =( We were so looking forward to a last day in the sun and were severely disappointed when the day dawned cloudy and cold. But we made the most of it with a last trip into the city for a postcard writing session and lunch at the National Geographic Café. All too soon we were on a plane and then a bus and tram and back at our front door. It was a wonderful holiday but of course over way too soon!

The sun break has stood us in good stead for the lousy weather we are currently having. It has been seriously cold over the last week. It has been between 0ºC and -7ºC or so with a lot of snow on Monday and Tuesday causing chaos with the trains. I do not recommend cycling in this weather! But it has to be done. It is snowing again today and is forecast to snow more in the week. Last year was much colder, around -15ºC in the day, but was only for 2 weeks.

At the moment we find ourselves at the beginning of Elfstedenkoorts. Hype for the 200 km eleven city skating race is much less this year than last after the country was so disappointed at the outcome. On Thursday news was that there was an 80% chance of it occurring this year but all the snow is going to decrease that. Only time will tell! We would love to experience an Elfstedentocht while living here but think it would also be quite crazy. The last race was held in 1996 and the Dutch are so ready for another one. Watch this space!

In other news we are patiently awaiting the arrival of Michelle and Graham’s first child who was officially due on Friday, the 18 th of Jan. All the best guys! We can’t wait to meet you little one =)

And we seem to finally be getting over our colds. Hopefully for good! Hope you are all well and enjoying the SA summer!

x

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