Wednesday, 10 July 2013

A Swiss Adventure! (Part 2)

Bells, bells, bells and more bells! All through the night, on the hour, every hour and every 15 minutes throughout the day! The local church right opposite our chalet was very pretty but the church bells at 6:00 were much less charming. But with so much to see and do, we were glad to be up early to start our days full of exploring!

We were extremely blessed with the weather; sunny and hot for most of the week, Thursday and Friday were a bit cooler with a bit of cloud and rain but not enough to stop our exploring! We were also glad we got an 8 day Swiss Rail Pass for our stay. Not only could we travel freely on all the trains, we could also use the ferries and some cable cards for free. The Pass also gave us free entry or discounts to many museums and cable cars and special mountain trains and the flexibility to go anywhere at any time. Definitely a worthwhile investment!

From Lauterbrunnen we first had to take the train into Interlaken and change there for most of the places we wanted to visit. Interlaken is in the middle of two lakes, Lake Brienz and Lake Thun. On Monday we went to explore Brienz and Thun at opposite ends of their respective lakes. First up was Brienz which we reached by train. Brienz is popular for wood carvings but we didn’t realise that not much would be open on a Monday. We enjoyed ambling through the town and walking along the lake front. We took advantage of the flexibility of our train passes and took the ferry from Brienz back to Interlaken Ost, a lovely relaxing hour on the water watching the mountains and waterfalls pass us by.

Back in Interlaken again, we took the train round the other lake to Thun. It was extremely hot in Thun and not much was open but we enjoyed walking around this charming town. We made our way up to the castle, shared an ice cream and watched teenagers swimming in the icy river. Time to head back for a relaxed evening of card games with the Finnemores!


A happy traveller at Lake Brienz





At the wood carving museum in Brienz


Dave with a grizzly creature walking along the Brienz Lake front


Fun water activities, suitable for all ages! 


Views of Lake Brienz and mountains from the ferry


A cascading waterfall as seen from the ferry


The castle in Thun


On Tuesday we bustled off to catch the two hour train to Lucerne, and what an impressive train journey it is, climbing steeply up the mountains to cross to the other side. Once in Lucerne, Dave headed to the transport museum, Olga went to do some shopping and the two of us explored the city.

The most popular attractions in Lucerne are the Chapel Bridge, the Lion Monument and the excellent transport museum. The Chapel Bridge is the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe and also the world’s oldest surviving truss bridge. It spans the Reuss River and the 17th century paintings in the interior make it unique. The Lion Monument is a wounded lion carved into the mountain and dedicated to the Swiss Guard who were killed protecting King Louis XVI during the French Revolution in 1792. The inscription reads, ‘to the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss’.


Chapel Bridge in Lucerne


The Lion Monument

Near to the Lion Monument is the Glacier Garden. The Glacier Garden is a massive rock with 32 large potholes that were formed at the bottom of the Reuss glacier by the action of the water and stones during the last Ice Age, evidence that Lucerne was covered by a glacier in the last Ice Age. There are also fossilised palm leaves and shells, evidence that Lucerne was once subtropical. At the Glacier Garden is also a Hall of Mirrors that looks easy at first but is actually impossible to navigate through!

Near the Glacier Garden is also the Bourbaki Panorama. This is a large circular style of painting depicting the crossing and disarming of the Eastern French Army under General Bourbaki during the Franco-Prussian War in 1871. The painter was a Red Cross volunteer at the time and witnessed the event. It is a very impressive painting and the commentary brings the event to life.

The rest of our time in Lucerne was spent wondering the streets, walking up to the castle, climbing castle turrets, trying not to melt in the heat, eating ice-cream and having a drink on the lake front waiting for the train to arrive.


Cows near the castle, we think they got lost... They did not look happy in the heat, poor things. 


Views over Lucerne from the top of a castle turret!


Outside the hall of mirrors at the Glacier Garden


We all opted for a quieter, slower day on Wednesday, a decision which was confirmed by the cloud cover in the morning. We headed into Interlaken with Olga to explore the town and do some shopping. The best triptych views of the Monch, Eiger and Jungfrau mountains can be seen at the mid-point of the town. The views that day were extra dramatic because of the rolling clouds. In Interlaken we also saw our first real live Edelweiss flower! Ok, it was in a florists shop, but still! It is quite pretty but different to how I thought it would be.


A saying close to our hearts seen outside a chocolatier in Interlaken


Edelweiss!


In the afternoon, we took the train up to Grindelwald on the other side of the mountain to Lauterbrunnen. We ambled through the town (everything closes at lunch time…) and caught the cable car to Grindelwald First, popular for skiing in the winter and for hiking in the Summer. By this time the clouds from the morning had mostly cleared and we enjoyed the most magnificent views of the mountains and valley below from the cable car, simply breath taking!

From Grindelwald First we did the not-so-flat-but-completely-worth-it hour walk to the Bachalpsee. It was still early Summer with lots of icy snow still on the ground. We were completely unprepared for going up the mountain and doing the walk since we were not planning to do this today but the opportunity presented itself and we are so glad we took it! Next time: wear proper walking shoes, not flip flops and eat lunch first! We only had half a slab of melted chocolate with us; the remedy: jam it in the icy snow for a few minutes! A totally worthwhile adventure, we highly recommend it if you are in the area!


Grindelwald


Views from the cable car to Grindelwald First


Streams from the melting ice and snow


The Bachalpsee


Frozen water at the Bachalpsee


Boibs at Grindelwald First


On Thursday we jumped on a train to Bern for another day of exploring! We mostly walked around the old city centre, some of the old roads were dug up for some kind of renovation or construction which was a pity but there was enough intact to get a feel for the old city. We stumbled upon the Einstein Museum where Albert Einstein lived with his first wife between 1903 and 1905. From there we crossed the river and walked up to the Rose Garden for views over the city. We weren’t particularly looking for them, but we found the bear pits anyway. Our opinion is still undecided on this but they were not as sad as I thought they would be. A late lunch on a terrace to pass the drizzle and then time to head back to Lauterbrunnen! On the way back to the train station we saw people setting up for a mountain bike race through the city, down crazy steps, round corners and back up steep alleys. We thought of you Julian Burke!


In the main streets of Bern


Views over the river


Boibs in Bern


Friday already and our last full day in Lauterbrunnen =( Another cloudy start to the day gave us the chance to visit Wengen. Wengen is the first main stop on the way to Kleine Scheidegg which carries onto the Jungfraujoch and is also the start of the cable car to Mannlichen which we would have been very keen to do if it wasn’t cloudy… Instead of the cable car, we decided to do the hour walk down the mountain back to Lauterbrunnen. It was a lovely walk but extremely steep! My calves were sore for a week! I felt really sorry for the people walking up! It was lunch time by the time we were back in Lauterbrunnen and also the time the clouds started clearing.


An interesting furry plant in Wengen


The cable car from Wengen to Mannlichen shrouded in mist


Views of the valley and Stechelbach waterfall on the walk down from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen


The train going from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen


On Friday afternoon there was time for one more activity on our must-see list: take the cable car to Grutschalp and walk across to Murren. A really lovely leisurely walk in the Swiss mountains with great views amidst the sound of cow bells. From Murren, we took the cable car down to Stechelberg. More amazing mountain views and steep cutaways in the mountains. Another highly recommended activity from our holiday!


Bron and Dave walking from Grutschalp to Murren


The path was shielded by tall trees most of the way


Views over the valley


Swiss cows! 


Waterfalls along the way!


The absolute last stop for us in this area was the Trummelbach waterfall on the way back to the chalet from Stechelberg. Carved out of the mountain by water, this waterfall is completely set into the rock, nothing can be seen from the outside. Yet this is the only outlet for the melting snow of the Jungfrau, Eiger and Monch mountains and a whopping 20 000 litres of water flow past per second. Incredible! Extremely impressive and extremely loud! This waterfall was totally worth the walk back to the house in the rain!


Part of the Trummelbach waterfalls


A last cheese fondue with the Finnemore’s and time to learn one last card game! Watch out if you ever play cards with Justin, he is so competitive and an undercover hustler! Then time to pack =(


Cheese fondue time!


On Saturday morning we travelled as far as Spietz together where the Finnemores departed for another week in Les Diablerets while we continued onto Geneva. We had some time before we were due at the airport, so we left our bags in lockers at the station and headed into the city. Another toasty sunny day, we were so blessed with the weather on this trip! We only had a couple of hours but managed to walk around the city centre and see the main sights of the Cathedrale St-Pierre, the floral clock and the Jet dÉau (fountain in Lake Geneva), and to have a short walk along the lake front. Bron was in Geneva as part of a lab trip in October 2012 but didn’t enjoy it very much as the part of the city we were in had a very dodgy vibe. This time however, the city had a very pleasant vibrant feel and we are glad we stopped off. There was a music festival of sorts and every square was filled with local choirs, children choirs, bands and every form of music you can think of. The city felt very vibrant and alive, it was a great end to a lovely holiday =)


Statue in Geneva


The Jet d'Eau on Lake Geneva


And on to the airport =( We had such a wonderful week in Switzerland with the Finnemore’s. Thank you for inviting us on your Swiss holiday, we loved spending time with you and thank you for sharing your knowledge of Switzerland with us. We highly recommend the Interlaken/Lauterbrunnen area to anyone travelling to Switzerland! It was a lovely welcome break from the first half of the year and the sudden new adventure we have found ourselves in. More about that next time!

x

No comments:

Post a Comment