Wednesday, 30 October 2013

Lima: City of the Kings

Alive and bustling, a unique culture with a quiet but evident pride and fantastic food. And also crazy traffic and taxi drivers that make you feel like you take your life into your own hands every time you step into a taxi. So far South America has a very Europe-meets-Africa feel about it and the city of Lima personifies this to the T.

Greetings from an almost always cloudy and misty Lima in Peru! We have been here 12 days now and are enjoying the opportunity to explore and experience another South American country and city. Justin's 90 day Brazilian tourist visa was up and rather than being illegal in the country, we came to Lima where Justin can work in the Royal Haskoning DHV office here while we wait for our new Brazilian visas to be approved and have them issued here. We have to have them issued outside of Brazil anyway and Lima was a good option because of the office here. 


We flew via São Paulo airport to Lima. What a contrast of airports! São Paulo airport is very old, not well laid out and just plain ugly. There appears to be scaffolding in the ceiling but on closer inspection it was designed to have a half‑finished look. We noticed a lot of construction going on around the airport and wondered if they would be ready for the soccer World Cup a few short months away. I also remembered how so many people laughingly predicted that South Africa would not be ready in time but we were and we gave a fine performance. So I back Brazil and have faith that they will pull it together in time. Lima airport by contrast has a very modern feel with lots of light and open airy spaces. It took a while to get through but everything went smoothly. All our luggage was scanned at customs which I haven't experienced before and found odd. 

We left the airport at about midnight and even so late at night there was a lot of traffic, not only around the airport but in the suburbs as well. Our hotel is in the district of Miraflores which is well known for being the touristy side of town where all the upmarket hotels and restaurants are but is also the safest area for tourists. It feels a bit strange living in a hotel with someone making up the bed every day. All the staff know who we are now, by the fourth morning already they stopped asking for our name and room number at breakfast. You know you have been in a hotel too long when…. 


View from the hotel rooftop on an unusually clear afternoon



Not knowing how long we will be here, we have used all the available time to explore this city. The first Saturday after we arrived we took a taxi to the city centre, about a 20 minute drive depending on the ever present traffic. Catching a taxi works differently here: there is no meter system, you negotiate the price for the trip up front with the driver. On this first trip into town we were definitely ripped off as the new gringo’s in town. We have wizened up since then but I am saddened that we are treated as walking money bags and people only see dollar signs when they look at us. I guess it happens everywhere in the world but it’s still sad. We have also learnt to always count our change, for everyone, from the taxi driver to the supermarket to the fancy department store, will try and short change you.

The historical city centre of Lima is a UNESCO Heritage Site. We started in Plaza Mayor, the site where Lima was founded by the Spaniard Francisco Pizarro and where independence from Spain was declared. Plaza Mayor is a huge square with a central fountain and surrounded by prominent buildings on all sides such as Lima Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, the Government Palace, Palace of the Union, and the Municipal Palace. The most prominent and noticeable feature of the square is all the enclosed wooden balconies; indeed there are 1600 of them in the historical city centre.


Plaza Mayor Lima


Lima Cathedral


Government Palace


Balconies of Lima



Boibs in Plaza Mayor


We wandered down to Plaza San Martin with its monument in honour of General José de San Martin, an Argentine general and leader of the struggle for independence in the southern part of the continent. Important buildings here include the Colón Theater, the Giacoletti buidlings, the Hotel Bolivar and the Club Nacional. We enjoyed wandering around the historical city centre soaking up the Spanish colonial architecture and getting our first taste of Peruvian Alpaca and other souvenirs.


Plaza San Martin


When in Peru...


The remainder of that first Saturday and Sunday was spent getting acquainted with our new area Miraflores. We found the Haskoning office where Justin will be while we are here, about a 20 minute walk from the hotel. We enjoyed a walk through Parque Kennedy in the heart of Miraflores. A relatively small park but beautifully manicured and well maintained with lots of flowers, Kennedy Park is popular with locals and tourists alike. The park is home to many cats apparently introduced to control the rat population. They are chilled and friendly and let people pet them but I did see one dash off into the safety of the flower bed when chased by an over‑enthusiastic toddler.

Lima is situated on the coast but has a cliff face directly in front of the pebble beach instead of the expected beach front. The top of the cliff has been turned into green park space where people walk their dogs (we saw a group celebrating a clearly beloved dog’s birthday here), cycle, play with their children and relax. A small part of this park is the Parque del Amor or the Love Park. A giant statue of a man and women kissing is in the centre and the park is decorated with the tile mosaics and romantic poetry. There is also a dedicated paraglider launching zone on the cliff side. We enjoyed watching the paragliders swoop and glide gracefully through the air. Our hotel room faces the ocean so we can also watch their antics from the comfort of our hotel room. Further down is the upmarket Larcomar shopping centre built into the cliff with many restaurants and cafés offering unhindered views out over the ocean.


Parque Amor


Interesting art work in the cliff-side park


Peruvian flag flying proud


Lighthouse in the park


Views over the ocean from the park




Paragliders


View over the cliffs


View down to the pebble beach


Larcomar


Halloween seems to be very big here.
We saw lots of buildings decorated to some degree and the supermarkets all have halloween goodies for sale 


Near to Kennedy Park are the Inca markets with many souvenirs for sale including the Peruvian hallmark Alpaca wool products. Favourite Alpaca items include woven hats, jerseys, ponchos and scarves. The all important Peru t-shirt souvenir comes in many variations and are all available at the Inca market. A whole street is dedicated to the markets. Each market has so many stalls and they are all selling the same stuff, how is it possible that they can all make a profit and keep trading? It is important to remember to bargain at these markets and the best tactic is to walk away as if you are uninterested, we had many prices instantly lowered jut by seeming disinterested. We enjoyed a Sunday afternoon amble through the markets perusing the tempting Alpaca and other goodies on offer.


The week inbetween consisted of work for Justin and more relaxed exploring for Bron. Bron’s favourite activities in the week include a take way lunch of empanadas in Kennedy Park, bargaining at the Inca markets, investigating the department stores around Kennedy Park and at Larcomar, and finding interesting patisseries to chill and read in whilst enjoying a hot chocolate and a treat. I also found the fresh food market on the border of Miraflores. It’s a really cool market if you enjoy whole plucked chickens hanging from their feet and various other cuts of red meat hanging about with flies everywhere. The smell wasn’t exactly pleasant. I’m not sure I would buy meat there but the fruit and veg looked really good, fresh and of a good quality. I did purchase some good quality nuts and dried fruit for general snacking.

We also celebrated our 5th wedding anniversary last week and shared a lovely romantic dinner at La Rosa Nautica, a posh restaurant on the pier. Peru is gaining more and more international attention for its cuisine and we have enjoyed trying the different typical Peruvian dishes on offer. At Rosa Nautica we tried the tasting menu and were served 3 classical and well‑prepared dishes for each course. During the week we also had dinner with some of Justin’s colleagues and tried some restaurants on our own. Peruvian specialties tried and enjoyed so far include causa, mashed Peruvian yellow potato usually layered with fish or meat; cebiche, raw fish marinated with lime juice and chilli; tacu-tacu, rice mixed with puréed  beans served with meat or prawns, tuna steaks, beef steaks and others. However, we are not brave enough to try roasted cuy (guinea pig), Alpaca steaks or beef hearts.

At Rosa Nautica we were also introduced to Pisco Sours, or at least Bron was (our Chilean friends did the honours for Justin in Cape Town). Pisco is the base for the cocktail and is a brandy‑type liquor distilled from grapes. Chile and Peru agree to disagree over the origins of and who produces the best Pisco. There are many cocktails with Pisco as the base but Pisco Sours is by far the most common and popular. Lime juice, syrup and bitters are the other ingredients of this cocktail and it is topped off with a froth of egg white. It’s good but also strong. Not recommended on a work night, at least not more than one.


La Rosa Nautica on the pier


Bron trying Pisco Sours


Anniversary dinner! Starters, 


mains,


and desert!


Finally Friday again and another weekend jam packed with exploring! On Friday night some of Justin’s Dutch colleagues joined us to see the Magic Water Circuit in Parque de la Reserva near the city centre. The park was named in honour of the reservists that defended Lima during the Pacific War with Chile. In the park is a circuit of 13 fountains, the largest fountain complex in the world, which are lit up at night with continuously changing colour schemes. We arrived in time for the laser light program showed 3 times a night over one of the fountains. We were disappointed with the laser show and felt they could have done better to choreograph the fountains with the light and music instead. But we enjoyed walking around the park admiring the different fountains.


Fountain in Parque de la Reserva


Fun interactive fountain


We all piled into a taxi and headed to the district of Barranco, the next disctrict just south of Miraflores. Barranco was a fashionable beach resort for Lima’s wealthy in the 1800s and is still the home and workplace of many artists and musicians. Justin’s colleague Jan, taxi negotiator extraordinaire, introduced us to the simply named Burrito Bar: a Mexican restaurant run and owned by an Englishman in Peru! A lovely relaxed evening ensued over bean-filled soft-shell tacos, burritos, and margaritas. Barranco looks like a lovely place for exploring and we hope to make it back here in the daylight sometime.


Margerita time!
Bron, Jan (taxi hailing extraordinaire) and Johan


On Saturday morning we went to see what Huaca Pucllana is all about. In the midst of Miraflores is Huaca Pucllana, an archaeological complex that was the administrative and ceremonial centre of the Lima culture between 200 and 700 AD. We joined a guided tour around the complex and learned a bit about the people who lived here and built this multi-layered pyramid from hand-made mud bricks. The Lima people, worshippers of the moon and sea, arrived first followed by the Wari people, who used the site as a burial ground, and finally the Ichma people, who made sacrifices of frogs. Hauca Pucllana was in the news recently (last week) for the discovery of two previously unknown mummies on the site in on going archaeological studies. We enjoyed our visit here but found it sad that conservation efforts only started here in 1981 and much of the pyramid and site had been destroyed or damaged by then due to the city growing around it.


Tiered pyramid of Huaca Pucllana


Looking down from the pyramid


Boibs at Huaca Pucllana


Lima is a surfer’s paradise since there are almost always good waves to be had all year round. On Saturday afternoon we were cajoled into taking a surf lesson by Justin’s colleagues and fellow surfers, Jan and Jan. For 50 Soles each we were kitted out with a wetsuit, booties, board and our own instructor for an hour or so. We started with some warm ups and basics on the beach, I should say pebbles, and then it was time to hit the water! Our instructors came with us, chose suitable waves, got us lined up and gave a gentle push to get us going. Justin did really well and was choosing and catching his own waves by the end and standing really well. Bron however still needs a lot of practice!


Justin looking like a pro


Bron looking like she needs a lot more practice!


On Sunday we were suitably stiff after Saturday’s adventures in the waves and decided to take it easy with a visit to Museo Larco followed by a nap. Housed in an 18th century vice-royal building surrounded by beautiful gardens, the Larco Museum showcases chronological galleries giving impressive insight into 3000 years of Peruvian history. On permanent display are the ceramics, culture, gold and jewellery, metals, and textiles galleries. The Larco is also well-known for its gallery of pre-Columbian erotic pottery and is one of few museums in the world that gives visitors access to the storage area of a further 45 000 objects. We enjoyed our time at the Larco and found it fascinating how these ancient civilisations did so much with the limited technology and resources they had at the time. They were real artists and smiths and master weavers long before any modern instruments. However we really struggled to wrap our minds around the human sacrificial ceremonies so entwined with this culture.


Ceramics at the Larco Museum


Inca ear plugs



Inca gold!


The erotic pottery gallery 


These two do not look very happy....


Now we are back into another week with Justin at work and Bron fighting an obligatory new country cold. But we are looking forward to a trip to Cusco and Machu Pichu this weekend! Initially we were only supposed to be in Lima for a week which left us no time to explore anywhere outside of Lima city, but with all the delays and further requests for new documents from the Netherlands, our stay here has been extended to at least 3 weeks. This coming weekend is a long weekend due to the Day of the Dead and All Saints Day public holiday and with it our opportunity to see more of the country. We are super excited and glad of the opportunity.

News from Cusco next week!

x


PS: these are two great websites we found very helpful in planning our trip to Lima and Peru:
www.limaeasy.com
www.roadsandkingdoms.com (also has an interesting section on South Africa)

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