Tuesday, 4 February 2014

Summer Holidays in Chile - Part 2

Welcome to Part 2 of our Summer holiday in Chile!

Joan and Mayira had planned to take us further South to the Lake Region of Chile for a few days between Christmas and New Year. The day after Boxing Day we set off for the 4 hour drive to Lake Villarrica, about 400 km from Concepcion. Our destination was Pucon on the shores of the lake nestled underneath the snow-capped Villarrica Volcano. 

We arrived in Pucon around lunch time and checked-in to our beautiful and cosy wooden cabin overlooking the lake. In light of the busy last few days and the heaps of driving we had been doing, we all opted for a relaxed lunch followed by an afternoon on the beach. We rented a wooden pedal boat for 4 and spent a tranquil 30 min on the water followed by chilled beach time and a swim in the warm lake. We were surprised by the black volcanic more-rock-than-sand beach but were pleased when the sand didn’t stick to wet feet the way white sand does. Back at the cabin, we enjoyed a relaxed evening with another braai and star gazing. How we have missed the Southern Hemisphere stars!


Friends at Villarrica overlooking Villarrica lake and volcano 


Villarrica volcano


View over the lake from our cosy cabin


On Saturday morning we woke up to no electricity and the main road between the cabin and Pucon closed off due to an accident. Our morning plans of exploring the area were put off to the afternoon when the road would hopefully be open again. In the meantime, Joan’s family had decided to join us for the weekend and set off early for the long drive to Pucon. When they arrived, a slow morning of lounging around the pool ensued until the road opened up.

The road eventually partially opened to traffic after lunch and we were able to be on our way. We were headed to the neighbouring lake, Lago Caburgua. Before we got there, we stopped at Ojos del Caburgua, or the Eyes of Caburgua: a series of waterfalls originating from the lake which cascade into beautiful clear blue pools all surrounded by forest. A really beautiful site and worth the stop. We carried on to the lake and passed the rest of the afternoon on the black volcanic sand beach and caught a ride on an inflatable banana! Back at the cabin in the evening it was time for the fourth braai of the holiday and more relaxed family time.


Chilling at the pool


Our cosy cabin looking onto the pool


The Eyes of Caburgua 


Friends 


On the beach at Lake Caurgua


Banana!


The weather forecast had predicted hot weather for Friday and Saturday but rain for Sunday and Monday. It was indeed raining on Sunday morning so we were glad we had spent the last two sunny days on the beach. But we had a plan for this rainy day: the geometrical hot springs! The idea behind the Termas Geometricas was to keep it as natural as possible and the architect achieved just that. Set in a natural ravine in the forest of the Villarrica National Park, hot spring water is distributed to 17 slate covered pools creating secluded hideaways for two and areas for groups to mingle in pools of varying temperatures but mostly 35-39°C. There are also two waterfalls and three cold water (4°C) plunge pools to cool off if you want to. The pools are connected by a wooden boardwalk and decks over the ravine. Private bathrooms and change rooms with individual lockers in the same local wood are scattered throughout the spa complex. There is also a café with a wood burning fireplace where drinks and snacks are available.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time at the hot springs soaking in the hot water and just relaxing. We have been to hot springs in Cape Town, Iceland and Spain but the Termas Geometricas are definitely the best and most natural we have been to. It is truly beautiful and so calm and serene. We highly recommend this spot if you are in the area!

Check out the website, available in Spanish and English: http://www.termasgeometricas.cl/.




Changing cabins, walkways and scenery at Termas Geometricas


Beautiful Family Leal! 


Boibs relaxing in a hot pool


Back in Pucon we shared a lovely early dinner together where we got to sample more traditional Chilean food before Joan’s family left to travel back to Concepcion. The four of us then had a quiet evening back at the cabin playing cluedo =)

Monday was another rainy day as forecast but we wanted to make the most of our last few hours in Pucon so we headed to the National Park which circles the volcano for a walk in the woods. We made it through 90% of the walk before the rain came down and then quickly dashed to the visitors centre where we waited out the rain with a hot drink. We had lunch at a lovely organic deli place in town before the long drive back to Concepcion. Justin and I felt like children in the back of the car the entire holiday; 5 minutes into any long drive and we were both fast asleep for the best part of an hour!

Back in Concepcion we had dinner at Mayira’s family home since her 5 year old niece Sofia was staying over. We had a lovely dinner of Completos and Completos Italiano. Chileans decided to put their own spin on the traditional hot dog so Completos is a hot dog with heaps of sauerkraut and mayo and Completos Italaino is a hot dog with tomato, mayo and avo so named because the colours represent the Italian flag.


Bron and Mayira in the National Park


Walking in the National Park



Our last full day in Concepcion was New Year’s Eve. The day started with a slower morning followed by lunch in the small town of Lenga with both Joan and Mayira’s families. It was really lovely having the whole family together again after a few days away. A traditional seafood restaurant was chosen so we could try more yummy Chilean seafood. We started with empanadas filled with soft crabmeat (jaibas) or machas and then Justin had the Chupe de Jaibas and Bron had the crab salad. After lunch we had a quick walk on the beach promenade and then for a drive around Talcahuano.

In most Spanish speaking countries we have been to, it is tradition to have dinner with your family at home on New Year’s Eve, celebrate at midnight together and then go out for a party if you wish to. Since we had Christmas Eve dinner with Joan’s family, the plan was to have dinner on New Year’s Eve with Mayira’s family. Joan’s family had booked to have dinner at a restaurant and would join us later after midnight.

Dinner was really lovely and we really enjoyed the opportunity to spend more time with Mayira’s family since we were staying at Joan’s family home. Joan’s family surprised us and joined us at a quarter to midnight so all the family was together to celebrate at midnight. The TV was switched on and we counted down together and then celebrated with streamers and fun party gadgets. Was really fun!

After another late night we all slept in really late on the 1st! There was time for one last big family braai before we made the long journey back to Santiago, of course the kids were sleeping in the back ;)


Four beautiful generations


Joan and Mayira with Salvi and Sofia


At the port in Talcahuano


Ready for New Year's! 


Francesco and beautiful Sofia


Sofia and her great grandmother


It's party time! 


The last braai in Concepcion: preparing choripan!


The next day was back to work for Joan and Mayira. Since we already had plans for the weekend, Justin and I decided to take the bus to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar for the day. So we were also up early to catch a ride into the city.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the bohemian hillside city of Valparaiso grew up around what would become the South Pacific’s most important port in the late 1800s and early 1900s until the opening of the Panama Canal. There is narrow coastal stretch called El Plan but all the interesting stuff happens on the Cerros, or hills. Not going up the hills in Valparaiso is like not going up the Eiffel Tower in Paris.

Owing to the steep nature of the hillside, there are many cable cars or funiculars that ferry people up and down the hills. We took a funicular to the top of Cerro Concepcion and spent the rest of the morning wandering around the steep streets with their colourful houses mixed in among colonial buildings and many museums and enjoying the views over the bay and neighbouring hills.

After lunch, we headed down to the coast and had a quick walk around the harbour area before catching a metro to Vina del Mar. Situated adjacent to Valparaiso, two cities couldn’t be more different. Vina del Mar is a much more affluent area than Valparaiso. This is immediately noticeable in the type of buildings and hotels lining the coast. The town is an important beach resort area in Chile with stretches of beautiful white sand beaches.

Although we had limited time, we really enjoyed the day walking around Valparaiso and Vina del Mar and highly recommend visiting the area if you find yourself in Santiago. It is very easy to catch the ultra-comfortable busses that head out frequently throughout the day.


Views up Cerro Concepcion in Valparaiso


Views from the hill over the harbour


At the waters edge in Valparaiso


Friday arrived all too quickly and with it our last weekend in Chile. But we still had fun plans for the next few days to look forward to: two nights on Rapel Lake and a braai with friends. One of the directors at the PRDW Santiago office, Gregorio, had invited the 4 of us to spend the weekend at his lake house, an offer we couldn’t refuse. After work on Friday, we all piled back into the car for another long drive, this time to Rapel.

Friday night was very relaxed with a boat ride on the lake followed by a lovely Chilean style braai (read: choripan!). Saturday dawned bright and clear with the promise of a hot day. The day started with a very active session on the outdoor racquetball court. A combination of squash and tennis, racquetball makes for a very good workout! A cool down swim followed and then some fun with the canoes on the lake and a water skiing lesson. After lunch an impromptu group nap occurred next to the pool. The last activity for the day was a short sail on the lake in the soft light of the afternoon sun. A perfect combination of busy activities, relaxing time and hanging out with friends and our hosts made it a very memorable day. A big thank you to Gregorio and his wife Antonio for the hospitality and friendship; thank you for the invitation, we had a really lovely time at the lake with you.


View from our window at Rapel


View over the lake and pool


Racquetball!


The players


Paddle time!



Gregorio and Joan


A quick ski lesson


Justin looking wobbly at the beginning...


...and much more confident at the end! 


Gregorio preparing a special meal


Sunday saw another early start so we could get back to Santiago in time to get organised for the lunch time braai. Joan and Mayira had very kindly invited some friends from the PRDW Santiago office that Justin knew from Cape Town for a braai; Andres and his wife Alehandro and their 3 children, and Nelson and his wife Jemma and their 2 children. It was a lovely afternoon spent catching up with friends and their families, enjoying the last braai of the holiday, swimming and playing with their children. In total we had enjoyed 7 braais during this wonderful Chilean holiday, more than in the last 3 years of living abroad!

Monday was back to work for all. While Justin set up office on the patio overlooking the garden, Bron went into Santiago City for a spot of shopping. It was another one of those scorchingly hot days in Santiago that we had come to love. Tuesday was our last day in Chile for a while and while Justin again used the patio as his office, Bron had the task of squeezing our belongings back into their bags, not an easy task after almost 12 weeks away and way too much shopping!

We were very sad to leave Santiago and Joan and Mayira. We had a really wonderful time and thank you again for your friendship and warm hospitality. We miss you guys so much already!! We look forward to planning the next get together =)

And then it was finally back to Brazil after almost 12 weeks away.

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