Welcome to Part 2 of our Summer holiday in Chile!
Joan and Mayira had planned to take us further South to the Lake Region
of Chile for a few days between Christmas and New Year. The day after Boxing
Day we set off for the 4 hour drive to Lake Villarrica, about 400 km from
Concepcion. Our destination was Pucon on the shores of the lake nestled
underneath the snow-capped Villarrica Volcano.
We arrived in Pucon around lunch time and checked-in to our beautiful
and cosy wooden cabin overlooking the lake. In light of the busy last few days
and the heaps of driving we had been doing, we all opted for a relaxed lunch
followed by an afternoon on the beach. We rented a wooden pedal boat for 4 and
spent a tranquil 30 min on the water followed by chilled beach time and a swim
in the warm lake. We were surprised by the black volcanic more-rock-than-sand
beach but were pleased when the sand didn’t stick to wet feet the way white
sand does. Back at the cabin, we enjoyed a relaxed evening with another braai
and star gazing. How we have missed the Southern Hemisphere stars!
Friends at Villarrica overlooking Villarrica lake and volcano
Villarrica volcano
View over the lake from our cosy cabin
On Saturday morning we woke up to no electricity and the main road
between the cabin and Pucon closed off due to an accident. Our morning plans of
exploring the area were put off to the afternoon when the road would hopefully
be open again. In the meantime, Joan’s family had decided to join us for the
weekend and set off early for the long drive to Pucon. When they arrived, a
slow morning of lounging around the pool ensued until the road opened up.
The road eventually partially opened to traffic after lunch and we were
able to be on our way. We were headed to the neighbouring lake, Lago Caburgua. Before
we got there, we stopped at Ojos del Caburgua, or the Eyes of Caburgua: a
series of waterfalls originating from the lake which cascade into beautiful
clear blue pools all surrounded by forest. A really beautiful site and worth
the stop. We carried on to the lake and passed the rest of the afternoon on the
black volcanic sand beach and caught a ride on an inflatable banana! Back at
the cabin in the evening it was time for the fourth braai of the holiday and
more relaxed family time.
Chilling at the pool
Our cosy cabin looking onto the pool
The Eyes of Caburgua
Friends
On the beach at Lake Caurgua
Banana!
The weather forecast had predicted hot weather for Friday and Saturday
but rain for Sunday and Monday. It was indeed raining on Sunday morning so we
were glad we had spent the last two sunny days on the beach. But we had a plan
for this rainy day: the geometrical hot springs! The idea behind the Termas
Geometricas was to keep it as natural as possible and the architect achieved
just that. Set in a natural ravine in the forest of the Villarrica National
Park, hot spring water is distributed to 17 slate covered pools creating
secluded hideaways for two and areas for groups to mingle in pools of varying
temperatures but mostly 35-39°C. There are also two waterfalls and three cold
water (4°C) plunge pools to cool off if you want to. The pools are connected by
a wooden boardwalk and decks over the ravine. Private bathrooms and change
rooms with individual lockers in the same local wood are scattered throughout
the spa complex. There is also a café with a wood burning fireplace where drinks
and snacks are available.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time at the hot springs soaking in the hot
water and just relaxing. We have been to hot springs in Cape Town, Iceland and
Spain but the Termas Geometricas are definitely the best and most natural we
have been to. It is truly beautiful and so calm and serene. We highly recommend
this spot if you are in the area!
Check out the website, available in Spanish and English: http://www.termasgeometricas.cl/.
Changing cabins, walkways and scenery at Termas Geometricas
Beautiful Family Leal!
Boibs relaxing in a hot pool
Back in Pucon we shared a lovely early dinner together where we got to
sample more traditional Chilean food before Joan’s family left to travel back
to Concepcion. The four of us then had a quiet evening back at the cabin
playing cluedo =)
Monday was another rainy day as forecast but we wanted to make the most
of our last few hours in Pucon so we headed to the National Park which circles
the volcano for a walk in the woods. We made it through 90% of the walk before
the rain came down and then quickly dashed to the visitors centre where we
waited out the rain with a hot drink. We had lunch at a lovely organic deli
place in town before the long drive back to Concepcion. Justin and I felt like
children in the back of the car the entire holiday; 5 minutes into any long
drive and we were both fast asleep for the best part of an hour!
Back in Concepcion we had dinner at Mayira’s family home since her 5
year old niece Sofia was staying over. We had a lovely dinner of Completos and
Completos Italiano. Chileans decided to put their own spin on the traditional
hot dog so Completos is a hot dog with heaps of sauerkraut and mayo and
Completos Italaino is a hot dog with tomato, mayo and avo so named because the
colours represent the Italian flag.
Bron and Mayira in the National Park
Walking in the National Park
Our last full day in Concepcion was New Year’s Eve. The day started with
a slower morning followed by lunch in the small town of Lenga with both Joan
and Mayira’s families. It was really lovely having the whole family together
again after a few days away. A traditional seafood restaurant was chosen so we
could try more yummy Chilean seafood. We started with empanadas filled with soft
crabmeat (jaibas) or machas and then Justin had the Chupe de Jaibas and Bron
had the crab salad. After lunch we had a quick walk on the beach promenade and
then for a drive around Talcahuano.
In most Spanish speaking countries we have been to, it is tradition to
have dinner with your family at home on New Year’s Eve, celebrate at midnight
together and then go out for a party if you wish to. Since we had Christmas Eve
dinner with Joan’s family, the plan was to have dinner on New Year’s Eve with
Mayira’s family. Joan’s family had booked to have dinner at a restaurant and
would join us later after midnight.
Dinner was really lovely and we really enjoyed the opportunity to spend
more time with Mayira’s family since we were staying at Joan’s family home. Joan’s
family surprised us and joined us at a quarter to midnight so all the family
was together to celebrate at midnight. The TV was switched on and we counted
down together and then celebrated with streamers and fun party gadgets. Was
really fun!
After another late night we all slept in really late on the 1st!
There was time for one last big family braai before we made the long journey
back to Santiago, of course the kids were sleeping in the back ;)
Four beautiful generations
Joan and Mayira with Salvi and Sofia
At the port in Talcahuano
Ready for New Year's!
Francesco and beautiful Sofia
Sofia and her great grandmother
It's party time!
The last braai in Concepcion: preparing choripan!
The next day was back to work for Joan and Mayira. Since we already had
plans for the weekend, Justin and I decided to take the bus to Valparaiso and
Vina del Mar for the day. So we were also up early to catch a ride into the
city.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the bohemian hillside city of Valparaiso grew
up around what would become the South Pacific’s most important port in the late
1800s and early 1900s until the opening of the Panama Canal. There is narrow
coastal stretch called El Plan but all the interesting stuff happens on the
Cerros, or hills. Not going up the hills in Valparaiso is like not going up the
Eiffel Tower in Paris.
Owing to the steep nature of the hillside, there are many cable cars or
funiculars that ferry people up and down the hills. We took a funicular to the
top of Cerro Concepcion and spent the rest of the morning wandering around the
steep streets with their colourful houses mixed in among colonial buildings and
many museums and enjoying the views over the bay and neighbouring hills.
After lunch, we headed down to the coast and had a quick walk around the
harbour area before catching a metro to Vina del Mar. Situated adjacent to
Valparaiso, two cities couldn’t be more different. Vina del Mar is a much more
affluent area than Valparaiso. This is immediately noticeable in the type of
buildings and hotels lining the coast. The town is an important beach resort
area in Chile with stretches of beautiful white sand beaches.
Although we had limited time, we really enjoyed the day walking around
Valparaiso and Vina del Mar and highly recommend visiting the area if you find
yourself in Santiago. It is very easy to catch the ultra-comfortable busses
that head out frequently throughout the day.
Views up Cerro Concepcion in Valparaiso
Views from the hill over the harbour
At the waters edge in Valparaiso
Friday arrived all too quickly and with it our last weekend in Chile. But
we still had fun plans for the next few days to look forward to: two nights on
Rapel Lake and a braai with friends. One of the directors at the PRDW Santiago
office, Gregorio, had invited the 4 of us to spend the weekend at his lake
house, an offer we couldn’t refuse. After work on Friday, we all piled back
into the car for another long drive, this time to Rapel.
Friday night was very relaxed with a boat ride on the lake followed by a
lovely Chilean style braai (read: choripan!). Saturday dawned bright and clear
with the promise of a hot day. The day started with a very active session on
the outdoor racquetball court. A combination of squash and tennis, racquetball
makes for a very good workout! A cool down swim followed and then some fun with
the canoes on the lake and a water skiing lesson. After lunch an impromptu
group nap occurred next to the pool. The last activity for the day was a short
sail on the lake in the soft light of the afternoon sun. A perfect combination
of busy activities, relaxing time and hanging out with friends and our hosts
made it a very memorable day. A big thank you to Gregorio and his wife Antonio for
the hospitality and friendship; thank you for the invitation, we had a really
lovely time at the lake with you.
View from our window at Rapel
View over the lake and pool
Racquetball!
The players
Paddle time!
Gregorio and Joan
A quick ski lesson
Justin looking wobbly at the beginning...
...and much more confident at the end!
Gregorio preparing a special meal
Sunday saw another early start so we could get back to Santiago in time
to get organised for the lunch time braai. Joan and Mayira had very kindly
invited some friends from the PRDW Santiago office that Justin knew from Cape
Town for a braai; Andres and his wife Alehandro and their 3 children, and
Nelson and his wife Jemma and their 2 children. It was a lovely afternoon spent
catching up with friends and their families, enjoying the last braai of the
holiday, swimming and playing with their children. In total we had enjoyed 7
braais during this wonderful Chilean holiday, more than in the last 3 years of
living abroad!
Monday was back to work for all. While Justin set up office on the patio
overlooking the garden, Bron went into Santiago City for a spot of shopping. It
was another one of those scorchingly hot days in Santiago that we had come to
love. Tuesday was our last day in Chile for a while and while Justin again used
the patio as his office, Bron had the task of squeezing our belongings back into
their bags, not an easy task after almost 12 weeks away and way too much
shopping!
We were very sad to leave Santiago and Joan and Mayira. We had a really
wonderful time and thank you again for your friendship and warm hospitality. We
miss you guys so much already!! We look forward to planning the next get
together =)
And then it was finally back to Brazil after almost 12 weeks away.
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