New Zealand: Auckland and Rotorua

In February we had the privilege of spending 3 weeks travelling around New Zealand and what a special trip it was! New Zealand is quite far away from everywhere, even some of its closest neighbours. It was summer and we probably won’t live closer again so it was the time to visit! Enjoy this first NZ blog of our time around the North Island.

After a long travel day we arrived in Auckland on a sunny Sunday morning. We didn’t spend a lot of time in Auckland, or any big NZ city actually, so we can’t comment much on what to see and do there. Initially we did consider driving directly on to Rotorua the day we arrived but thought a 3 hour drive on jet lag in a new country probably wasn’t the wisest decision. So with only one afternoon in Auckland, it was spent stretching our legs in the Auckland Botanical Gardens and along the city centre foreshore where there was a festival on at the port and waterfront and ended in an early night to try combat the jet lag!

Sights around Auckland

On Monday we drove south through Hamilton, with a tea break at Hamilton Gardens, to Rotorua, our first stop on the North Island. The heat wave that was over Australia in January arrived in Rotorua at the same time we did and seemed to follow us all over the country. We were grateful for the sunny rain-free days but it was steaming with temperatures hovering around 30°C, much hotter than normal locals told us. Rotorua is the geothermal capital of New Zealand and we were looking forward to a soak at one of the many thermal pools in the area but with temperatures in the 30s we couldn’t think of immersing ourselves in 30°C water too! Fortunately, there are enough land based sights and activities in the area to enjoy also.

Rotorua Museum and Government Gardens

Kuirau Park in central Rotorua 

That afternoon was spent following the Rotorua Instagram Trail. We started at the Rotorua Museum (currently closed due to earthquake damage unfortunately), Gardeners Cottage and Government Gardens close to the city centre. Kuirau park is a free thermal park in the city centre, well worth the visit, and also with a free thermal foot bath. Exploring then headed out to the lakes with short walks and viewpoints around Blue Lake, Green Lake, the boardwalk at Lake Okareka, Tarawera lookout overlooking Lake and Mount Tarawera, and the popular Landing Jetty. It was still light until about 21:00 so it was super easy to be out exploring until late without realising it.

Walking around the Blue and Green Lake 

View from Tarawera lookout 

Boardwalk stroll at Okareka Lake

The next day was a full day of exploring starting at a thermal park. There are many thermal parks around Rotorua, after some research we chose Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland and weren’t disappointed. Wai-O-Tapu means ‘sacred waters’ in Maori and at 18 square kilometres, there is much to see. If you also choose to visit this park, make sure to arrive in time for the induced eruption of Lady Knox Geyser at 10:15. The park is well-laid out with boardwalks for easy navigation, we chose to do the extended loop to see all the areas of the park, many people skipped the last loop but this forested area with a lake and waterfall is really special and quite different to the rest of the park. We loved the Champagne Pool, Artist’s Palette, Primrose Terrace, bubbling mud pools, and other pools throughout the park. The nature and colours of these pools change through the year depending on the amount of rainfall and water feeding into the area. It was quite dry when we were there so the mud pools were quite thick and dark, like bubbling molten chocolate. In rainier times they are lighter in colour and more fluid so they bubble more easily. It would be interesting to experience the park throughout the year.

Lady Knox Geyser before erupting 

Artist's Palette 

Champagne Pool

Exploring Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland

It was a toasty 33°C that day. In the afternoon we took shelter amongst the giant Californian Coast Redwood trees in the Whakarewarewa Forest. In the 1890s the New Zealand government began replacing forests that were being cleared for housing and farming and in 1901 the first Californian Redwoods were planted as a trial to assess the viability of exotic species for commercial forestry. These trees have grown faster than in their native environment and have reached 70 m in just 100 years. The area is still a productive plantation but is now protected and open to the public to enjoy the many walking, horse and mountain bike trails. The area is dedicated to the fallen Forest Service members of the first and second World Wars and is also known as Redwood Memorial Grove. A Tree Walk with 21 suspension bridges in the tree canopy was opened in Dec 2015. This forest is truly a New Zealand gem. There are a number of walking trails of varying grade and access. We chose a 5 km walk with some sneaky steep sections but overall shaded and cool. These trees are just magnificent and so calming, definitely worth adding to your Rotorua itinerary!

Whakarewarewa Forrest 

From Rotorua we travelled to Tongariro National Park via Lake Taupo and Huka Falls. Huka Falls is a set of the largest waterfalls on the Waikato River, New Zealand’s longest river and drains Lake Taupo. Just upstream of Huka Falls, the river enters a shallow ravine that narrows from 100 m to just 15 m across the gorge, increasing the water flow and pressure immensely. The hereto placid waters tumble at great speed before crashing into a pool 11 m below. About 220, 000 litres of water gushes through every second, a flow rate that would fill an Olympic swimming pool in 11 seconds! The hydro-electric scheme controls the flow rate and opens the gates several times a day. There are a few viewing platforms, we chose one just down from the footbridge directly overlooking the river. From here we could watch the first pool fill up and then the water come raging downstream. On top of all that, the water is a mesmerising blue. It was truly spectacular and highly recommended! Arrive a few minutes before the advertised time to appreciate the calm waters before the gates are opened.  

The Waikato River just after Huka Falls when the river is raging.

In the distance is calmer waters. Notice the intense blue.

Apart from lunch we didn’t spend much time in Lake Taupo, but it looked lovely with many geothermal and activity options too. From here we travelled to Ohakune, our base for exploring the Tongariro National Park.

More on that next time!